A few days after my first free ascent of Double Stout I went out with Mike and Janelle to shoot some video. Here is what we came back with. Thanks again to Darren Mabe for envisioning and equipping the line. Thanks to Janelle for patiently belaying and to Mike for filming. Enjoy!
UPDATE: Deadpoint Magazine wrote up a nice little news bit about Double Stout here.
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Awesome Mark. I was hoping there would be video of this!
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After the reading post that described the crazy roof sequence, it was so cool to see it!
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That’s nuts! Did you consider climbing the roof section right side up? I think you just become an idol to all the college kids across the country who train constantly so they can one day climb upside down. What’s next, backwards dihedral climbing?
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I don’t normally approach a route looking for a way to climb it upside down, so yes, initially I tried climbing it head-first. Believe it or not, this is the easiest way (that I found) to do it. It’s not at all unprecedented. The crux beta for the uber-famous Separate Reality is to “flip around at the lip” and get a feet-first toe hook. That’s where I got the idea for this beta.
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Finally caught up with this. Toto, I don’t think we’re at Smith Rock anymore! Amazing roof beta–so cool. The draws caught my eye–looked like biner keepers on knotted webbing? I can’t think of any reason NOT to do it that way, but I wondered what led you to that setup? (Since I know you two don’t do anything without a reason…)
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Sorry, Phil, those webbing draws were fixed when I showed up, so I can’t give you an explanation. My guess is they are designed to minimize rope drag, but I just back cleaned as I climbed.
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