https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/tools-for-rock-climbing-training/the-rock-climbers-training-manual/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/ad-page-1-r21.jpgAd Page 1 R2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/ad-page-2.jpgAd Page 2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/ad-page-1.jpgAd Page 12024-01-15T22:04:14+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2020/04/05/how-to-become-an-expert-climber-in-five-simple-lessons-lesson-5/2020-04-10T17:47:20+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2020/03/19/how-to-become-an-expert-climber-in-five-simple-lessons-lesson-4/2020-03-19T17:47:18+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2020/03/07/how-to-become-an-expert-climber-in-five-simple-lessons-lesson-3/2020-05-12T01:35:15+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2020/02/29/how-to-become-an-expert-climber-in-five-simple-lessons-lesson-2/2020-03-01T00:22:44+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/tools-for-rock-climbing-training/free-downloads/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/forge-grip-identification-chart.jpgForge Grip Identification Charthttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/2014-blank-calendar.jpg2014 Blank CalendarBlank 2014 Training Calendarhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/rptc-grip-identification-chart.jpgRPTC Grip Identification Chart2021-02-27T19:37:29+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2020/02/25/how-to-become-an-expert-climber-in-five-simple-lessons/2020-10-15T02:38:27+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/11/08/whitewater-canyoning-in-switzerland-nala-inferiore/2019-11-08T21:15:39+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/10/15/swiss-sport-climbing-part-2-off-the-beaten-path/2019-10-15T15:29:23+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/10/01/high-wire-act-vf-murren/2019-10-01T15:55:13+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/09/15/klettersteig-on-the-flank-of-the-eiger/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4756a.jpgIMG_4756aEntering the big gulley.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4765a.jpgIMG_4765aNear the Rotstock summit (above).https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_1901a.jpegIMG_1901aAmelie and the Jungfrau.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4776a.jpgIMG_4776aOn the summit.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4779a.jpgIMG_4779aLogan on the Rotstock summit, with the Eiger West Flank (and route) behind.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4844a.jpgIMG_4844aThe Eigerwand.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_1862a.jpegIMG_1862aThe Eiger Nordwand (aka Eigerwand) on the left, and the Eiger Rotstock on the right (with its summit just up and left of the signpost. The via ferrata more or less climbs the large gulley in the center of the photo.2019-09-16T22:54:25+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/09/03/swiss-sport-climbing-part-1-the-giants/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_5199a.jpgIMG_5199aSurfer's Paradise, 8a+, Gimmelwald. Photo Logan Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_5198a.jpgIMG_5198aSurfer's Paradise, Gimmelwald. Photo Logan Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4990a.jpgIMG_4990aTeufelskuche, 7c+, Gimmelwald.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4987a.jpgIMG_4987aHigher on Teufelskuche, Gimmelwald.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4914a.jpgIMG_4914aMen at Work, 7c+, Gimmelwald.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4677a.jpgIMG_4677aThe Eiger Nordwand from the approach to Lehn. The lower half of the wall is obscured.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_5693a.jpgIMG_5693aParaglider over the Lauterbrunnen Valley, with the Eiger (L) and the Monch (R) behind.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4992a.jpgIMG_4992aBeautiful views and buttery limestone at Gimmelwald.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4648a.jpgIMG_4648aEntering the high crux of Schweizerhalle, Lehn.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/img_4622a.jpgIMG_4622aSchweizerhalle, 7b+, Lehn.2019-09-03T16:08:35+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/08/25/swiss-preview/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_5533a.jpgIMG_5533aOff the beaten path in Elsigen.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_5007a.jpgIMG_5007aGimmelwald sport climbing.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_5254a.jpgIMG_5254aLogan braving the unparalled Murren VF.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_6833a.jpgIMG_6833aAma cruising the Brunnistockli VF.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_2047a.jpegIMG_2047aSwimming in Grunsee.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_6497a.jpgIMG_6497aThis Rodelbahn is so good someone died on it.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_20190817_111647995a.jpgIMG_20190817_111647995aRapping a 50-meter waterfall in Nala Inferiore.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_6251a.jpgIMG_6251aStay in Zermatt long enough and you get sick of looking at the Matterhorn. This is from Riffelsee.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_5679a.jpgIMG_5679aBig Chess in Murrenhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/img_6502.jpgIMG_6502Apparently this is the Willy Wonka-est of Switzerland's many chocolate factories.2019-08-25T20:37:26+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/07/13/corner-pocket/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mvi_4421_moment9a.jpgMVI_4421_Moment9aYarding off the keeper mono.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mvi_4421_moment18a.jpgMVI_4421_Moment18aUnwinding from the big mono reach.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/mvi_4421_moment3a.jpgMVI_4421_Moment3axxxhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/img_4430.jpgIMG_4430Pulling onto the headwall on the "open project."https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/img_4403b.jpgIMG_4403bHigh on Bay of Pigs.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/photo-3.jpgPhoto-3The northern San Juan mountains from the summit of Wetterhorn Peak.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/photo-4.jpgPhoto-4https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/photo-2.jpgPhoto-2The 4th of July parade in downtown Ouray. If you stand on the sunny side of the street, expect to get soaked!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/photo-1.jpgPhoto-1The Pool Wall. The Bay of Pigs sector is the clean lower wall in the center.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/07/photo-0.jpgPhoto-0Logan enjoying another of Luke's routes, California Stars (5.10a) at The Alcove sector of the Pool Wall.2019-07-13T20:15:28+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/06/27/maui-mixed-plate-part-ii-pacific-heat/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_4201a.jpgIMG_4201aClimbing a 5.12(?) on the steeper, harder, left side of PK.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_4110.jpgIMG_4110Warming up on the right end of PK. Some of the bulbous mushroom features can be seen to my left.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_4101.jpgIMG_4101The left half of the incredible PK wall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_4085.jpgIMG_4085Sticking the long reach in the middle of Crux #1. Photo JJ.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_4076.jpgIMG_4076Approaching Crux #1. Photo Jeff Jackson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_4052.jpgIMG_4052Dave cruising the 12b, just about to enter the unusual crux.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_4078.jpgIMG_4078Climbing a stellar 13b in the big cave. Photo Jeff Jacksonhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_4045a.jpgIMG_4045aRaucous goat party.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_4093.jpgIMG_4093Climbing in Hawai’i? It’s even better than it looks! Photo Jeff Jackson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/20.jpeg20See you next time!2020-01-08T18:59:48+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/06/14/maui-mixed-plate-part-i/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_1107.jpgIMG_1107..."Swing from a harry vine, I can be a backpack while you climb..."https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/img_1226a.jpgIMG_1226aWaterfall swimming with Logan at 3 Bears Falls on Maui's North Shore.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/14.jpeg14The view in to the crater on the east side of Haleakala.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/9.jpeg9Enjoying switchbacks on the descent.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/6.jpeg6On the summit. You can barely see the twin summits of Mauna Kea and Mauna Lua, on the big island of Hawai’I, at center. The Maui Space Surveillance Complex is on the right.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/13.jpeg13The shadow Haleakala (on the left) rising to the southwest.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/10.jpeg10Sunrise—just missed it.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/5.jpeg5Selfie while riding, just before sunrise.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/4.jpeg4The view to west Maui, in the National Park but still a bit before sunrise.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/3.jpeg3Haleakala from the west side. It’s steeper than it looks, haha.2019-06-15T02:50:55+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/05/09/slice-of-time-new-eldo-5-14b/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/eldo.jpgEldoEldorado Canyonhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/photo-0a.jpgPhoto-0a2019-06-01T07:22:28+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2019/01/26/the-bolting-life/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/bolting-pic.jpgBolting Pic2019-05-07T03:11:49+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/12/10/flashback-series-4-freerider-the-forgotten-first-flash-of-el-cap/2018-12-14T04:08:45+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/11/15/kid-friendly-via-ferrata-in-the-dolomites/2018-11-16T01:43:15+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/11/04/vote/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/votepic.jpegVotepic2018-11-04T21:26:31+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/09/21/iontophoresis-part-ii/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_6309.jpgimg_6309Note the skin redness on my forearms where the wristband was located. This fades within two hours or so.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/1-tin-method-pic.jpg1-tin-method-picWire everything as shown in the photo. Do not start with 18v!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_6331a.jpgimg_6331aWrapping foil around the wristband will greatly increase conductivity, reducing the amount of current required and decreasing current density where the wire is attached. This piece of foil is approximately 12" x 18". Fold it twice length-wise to create a strip 3"x18", and wrap that around the dampened wristband. Roll the two ends together and clip the wire to the roll.2018-10-22T17:27:24+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/10/06/sport-climbing-in-canada-part-2/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3467a.jpgIMG_3467ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3527-abbot-pass_a.jpgIMG_3527 abbot pass_ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3505a.jpgIMG_3505ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3844a-e1537716919763.jpgIMG_3844ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3668a-e1537716830143.jpgIMG_3668ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3587-wheres-mom_a.jpgIMG_3587 Wheres Mom_ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3825a.jpgIMG_3825ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3850a.jpgIMG_3850ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3762a-e1537716887231.jpgIMG_3762ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3886a.jpgIMG_3886a2018-10-06T15:25:58+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/09/16/sport-climbing-in-canada-part-1/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_1964.jpgIMG_1964https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/temple-gl.jpgTemple GLhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3324a.jpgIMG_3324ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3414-mt-fay-gorilla.jpgIMG_3414 Mt Fay Gorillahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3418.jpgIMG_3418https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3410.jpgIMG_3410Isn't it fun when you run into someone you know! Kate and Logan just below Sentinel Pass.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3361-e1537048963315.jpgIMG_3361https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3347-e1537049461479.jpgIMG_3347https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3355-e1537048995112.jpgIMG_3355https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/img_3332-cardiac-arete-p3-e1537049502583.jpgIMG_3332 Cardiac Arete P32018-09-17T02:57:37+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/09/05/exploring-the-tre-cime/2018-09-06T00:00:33+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/08/20/striking-distance/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/img_8038a.jpgIMG_8038ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/img_2904a-e1534724878279.jpgIMG_2904ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/img_3032a.jpgIMG_3032ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/img_3230a-e1534716166782.jpgIMG_3230ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/img_3082a-e1534715969519.jpgIMG_3082aDerek Wasiecko toppint out The Underflinger, 5.12b.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/img_3030a.jpgIMG_3030ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/img_3059a.jpgIMG_3059ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/img_3105a-e1534714585423.jpgIMG_3105aBen Lindfors climbing On Till The End, 5.13c.2018-08-23T11:26:22+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/08/02/more-sport-climbing-in-the-dolomites/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2396a-e1533261089570.jpgIMG_2396aFantastic, 7b+ Becco d'Ajal.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1924a.jpgIMG_1924aCinque Torrihttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2297a-e1532913034529.jpgIMG_2297aNo Worries, 7a+, Becco d'Ajalhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2218a-e1533261277740.jpgIMG_2218aNo Worries, 7a+, Becco d'Ajal.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2111a.jpgIMG_2111aSoci della Birra, 7a+, Becco d'Ajal.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2004a-e1532912580599.jpgIMG_2004aSoci della Birra at Beco d'Ajalhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2624a-e1532912275644.jpgIMG_2624aWhite Line, 6c+, Crepe de Oucera.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1774a-e1532912019586.jpgIMG_1774ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1940-rio-gere_a-e1532911661918.jpgIMG_1940 Rio Gere_aRio Gere--a massive boulder in the forest just east of Cortina.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1773a-e1532911895999.jpgIMG_1773aClimbing rad (but muddy) flowstone pockets on Che Pizza, 7b+, Rio Gere.2018-08-03T01:56:01+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/07/29/sport-climbing-in-the-dolomites/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1478a.jpgIMG_1478aLaste.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_0855a-e1530913874258.jpgIMG_0855aCilum, 7a, Laste.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1013a-e1530913703701.jpgIMG_1013aTrippa per Gatti, 7a+, Laste.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1046a-e1530913507664.jpgIMG_1046aPeople Mover, 7c+, Laste.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_0424-salares-climbing_b-e1530913344268.jpgIMG_0424 Salares climbing_bAchtung Baby, 7a+, Salares.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_0554-salares-climbing_a-e1530913209703.jpgIMG_0554 Salares climbing_aLa Chica Bonita, 7a+, Salares.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1469-picnic-below-civetta_a.jpgIMG_1469 Picnic below Civetta_aPicnicing at the Laste parking lot, with the north face of the Civetta in the distance.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_0760a.jpgIMG_0760aPrepping the photoshoot at Salares. The cliffs of Val Badia are off to the left.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_0771b.jpgIMG_0771bRope-swing at Salares, with Passo Valparola on the right.2018-07-30T00:37:34+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/07/06/exploring-the-dolomites/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2667-kanda-and-crado-di-lago_a.jpgIMG_2667 KandA and Crado di Lago_aIn the meadows of Passo Giau, with Crado di Lago behind.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2540a.jpgIMG_2540aAmelie in the Odle Group, with Sassolungo obscured by clouds.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_0327-lake-misurina_a.jpgIMG_0327 Lake Misurina_aMisurina, with the Sorapiss Group behind.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_0993a-e1530895612946.jpgIMG_0993aThe Haunold "Funbob." No relation to Alex?https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2663a.jpgIMG_2663ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2596-ortesi_a-e1530894872205.jpgIMG_2596 Ortesi_aClimbing art in Ortesi.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_2577a.jpgIMG_2577aHiking the alpine meadows below the Odle Group.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1874a.jpgIMG_1874aExploring the Cinque Torri, a historic climbing crag. The Col dei Bos can be seen in the distance.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_1565a.jpgIMG_1565aOn the trail to the Tre Cime, with the Cadini di Misurina group behind.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/img_0761-kate-w-tofana-di-rozes-behind_a-e1530893398636.jpgIMG_0761 Kate w Tofana di Rozes behind_aKate near the summit of Lagazuoi Piccolo, with Tofana di Rozes behind.2018-07-31T22:47:38+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2018/02/05/podcast-panel-discussion-on-training/2018-02-06T13:01:41+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/12/05/training-takeover-8-weeks-to-rock-prodigy-status/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/gym_20130820_0084.jpggym_20130820_0084https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/8-week-program.jpg8 Week Program2018-06-24T10:09:18+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/10/23/the-eclipse-corridor-mini-guide/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/mvi_9103_moment8a.jpgMVI_9103_Moment(8)aTotality, 5.13ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/mvi_9072_moment3a.jpgMVI_9072_Moment(3)aShadow Bands, 5.12-https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/img_9073a.jpgIMG_9073aSpicules, 5.10https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/img_9094a.jpgIMG_9094aOccultation, 5.11-https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/eclipse-topo3.jpgEclipse Topo3https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/eclipse-topo2.jpgEclipse Topo2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/eclipse-topo1.jpgEclipse Topo1https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/mvi_9091_moment_b.jpgMVI_9091_Moment_bBoer pulling on the second ascent of Diamond Ring, 5.12-https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/mvi_9074_moment2a.jpgMVI_9074_Moment(2)aBoer onsighting Chromosphere, 5.11https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/mvi_9095_moment7a.jpgMVI_9095_Moment(7)aSyzgy, 5.132018-04-20T22:15:32+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/10/06/walk-tall-or-not-at-all/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/brown-scoop-topo.pngBrown Scoop Topohttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/20170903105920_img_4532a.jpg20170903105920_IMG_4532aRocking over the lip. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/20170903102936_img_4464a.jpg20170903102936_IMG_4464aLatching the throw. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/20170903102150_img_4440a.jpg20170903102150_IMG_4440ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/20170903102149_img_4437a.jpg20170903102149_IMG_4437aAttempting the burly throw that caps off the wall. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/img_4410a.jpgIMG_4410axxxhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/mvi_8942_moment8a.jpgMVI_8942_Moment(8)aThe final crux of Groposphere.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/mvi_8942_moment3a.jpgMVI_8942_Moment(3)aGroposphere, groping through the crux.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/img_8065a.jpgIMG_8065aThe “Brown Scoop Wall”https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/third-twin-topo.jpgThird Twin Topo2017-10-11T09:53:54+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/09/04/aggro-diablo-new-hard-lines-at-devils-head/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/switchblade-topo3c.jpgSwitchblade Topo3chttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/switchblade-topo3a.jpgSwitchblade Topo3ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/mvi_8577_moment3a.jpgMVI_8577_Moment(3)aThe first ascent of Bowie, 5.13c, turning the roof on big jugs.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_8481a.jpgIMG_8481aSliced and Diced, 5.13c, ascends stellar stone on the far left edge of the Switchblade. Photo Boer Zhao.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/12-mvi_8321_moment_a.jpg12 MVI_8321_Moment_aAbove the crux of Stiletto, 5.14b, with another 30-feet of stellar crimping to go.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/mvi_8417-stilleto-send-7-jul-17_moment_a.jpgMVI_8417 Stilleto Send 7 Jul 17_Moment_aNearing the crux.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/1-mvi_8315_moment_a.jpg1 MVI_8315_Moment_aLatching the V9-ish roof crank. Filleted Runner, 5.14a, continues straight up through the hueco above my head (at the very top of the frame), then veers right to join Blade Runner.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/blade-runner.jpgBlade RunnerThe Switchblade, with a climber on Blade Runner, 5.13bhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/pano_20170819_074609_a.jpgPANO_20170819_074609_aThe labyrinthine spires and blades of Devil’s Head offer something for everyone. Photo Boer Zhao.2017-09-05T02:27:13+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/08/26/eclipse-fever/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_9359.jpgIMG_9359Ready for action.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_9356.jpgIMG_9356Amelie driving the wagon train below Scott's Bluff.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_9336.jpgIMG_9336Wind Turbines in Pawnee National Grasslands.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_8815a.jpgIMG_8815aPartial Eclipsehttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_4332a.jpgIMG_4332aA great shot of prominence (in the upper right quadrant), captured by Mike who viewed the eclipse from Wyoming. Photo Mike Andersonhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_8846a.jpgIMG_8846ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_8844a.jpgIMG_8844ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_8841a.jpgIMG_8841aSome Corona pics...https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_8838b.jpgIMG_8838bAnother Diamond Ring.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/mvi_8847_moment3a.jpgMVI_8847_Moment(3)aThe Diamond Ring. You can also see a small Baily’s Bead on the left side of the ring.2017-08-29T09:16:09+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/08/15/extend-your-performance-peak-with-a-micro-cycle/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/img_1776b.jpgIMG_1776bAfter 8 weeks of training for Rifle endurance, I used a Micro Cycle to re-tune my power for short burly routes like 7 Minute Abs.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/mvi_6502-1st-go-rp_moment8a.jpgMVI_6502 1st Go RP_Moment(8)aDouble-O Ninja.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/mvi_6461-v-roof-send-30-oct-16_moment14.jpgMVI_6461 V-Roof Send 30 Oct 16_Moment(14)The first ascent of Anticiperection, 5.14a.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/fall-2016-micro-cycle-schedule1.jpgFall 2016 Micro Cycle Schedule2017-08-25T03:52:59+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/07/29/new-front-range-moderates-at-the-aqueduct/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/wabble-topo2.jpgWabble Topo2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/mvi_8011_moment2a.jpgMVI_8011_Moment(2)aStraining through the crux of Solidarity Brother, 12b.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/mvi_8014_momenta.jpgMVI_8014_MomentaBoer sticking the big dyno on The Meek Are the Problem, 12a.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/mvi_8010_moment4a1.jpgMVI_8010_Moment(4)aCruising the short but sweet jutting prow of Fight the Oppressors, 11a.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/dsc_2291-edit.jpgBoarBoer nearing the chains of This Calls For Immediate Discussion, 10c. Photo © Nicholas Zepedahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/img_7999a.jpgIMG_7999aKate cruising Well Done Sergeant, 11ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/dsc_2271-edit.jpgMark AndersonClimbing One Total Catastrophe is Just the Beginning, 11b, at the Committee Wall. Photo © Nicholas Zepedahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/committee-topo.jpgCommittee Topohttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/approach-topo.jpgApproach Topohttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/dsc_2201.jpgMark AndersonHigh above the river on Well Done Sergeant, 5.11a, at The Aqueduct. Photo © Nicholas Zepeda2017-07-29T16:13:51+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/07/10/climbing-in-italy-finale-ligure-part-2/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7571a.jpgIMG_7571aCastle of the Day: Vernazza, along the infamous Cinque Terra trail. Logan hiked 8 KM all by himself on this day.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7655a.jpgIMG_7655aHigher on Change the World’s endless sea of pockets.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7653b.jpgIMG_7653bKate at the bulging crux of Change the World, 6b, at Bastionata sinistra Boragni.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7653a.jpgIMG_7653aKate at the bulging crux of Change the World, 6b, at Bastionata sinistra Boragni.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7640a.jpgIMG_7640a...there he is. Copping a rest in one of the many pockets of Panorama, 7a+https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7642a.jpgIMG_7642aWhere’s Waldo...?https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7636a.jpgIMG_7636aKate enjoying the heavily-pocketed start of Memobox.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7629a-memobox-7b.jpgIMG_7629a Memobox 7bMemobox, 7b, another great tufa line at Strapatente.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7617.jpgIMG_7617Commuting between Domus Aurea and Grotta della Strapatente.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7620a-pyro-7b.jpgIMG_7620a Pyro 7bClimbing Pyro, 7b, on the amazing wall of tufas at Grotta della Strapatente.2017-07-24T18:57:40+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/06/27/kittys-back-in-clear-creek/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/mvi_7990_moment3a.jpgMVI_7990_Moment(3)aPowerful lock-offs on Top Cat, 5.14a.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/mvi_7971_moment2a.jpgMVI_7971_Moment(2)aSteep, fun pretzel climbing on Catlong.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/mvi_7976_moment_a.jpgMVI_7976_Moment_aFingerlocking onto the steep visor on Catlong.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/catslab-topo2.jpgCatslab Topo2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/mvi_7990_6b.jpgMVI_7990_6bTopcat, one of three new routes atop the Catslab in Clear Creek Canyon, CO.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/catslab-topo1.jpgCatslab Topo12017-06-27T12:46:46+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/06/20/climbing-in-italy-finale-ligure-part-1/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7465a.jpgIMG_7465aLogan preparing to take a big swing.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7462a.jpgIMG_7462aLogan getting in on the climbing.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7454a.jpgIMG_7454aAmelie’s rope swing.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7433a.jpgIMG_7433aEl Diablo, 7b. The Climber in the orange helmet is on Lubna. Photo Logan Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7498a.jpgIMG_7498aHigher on Bombolo, a classic jughaul with wild stemming and some tufa action. Photo Logan Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7478a.jpgIMG_7478aKate cruising Bombolo, 6b, in the mini-cylinder inside Grotta dell-edera. Photo Logan Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7448a.jpgIMG_7448aThe perfectly-named Camera Con Vista (Room with a view), 7a. The “window” is to my left, and there is another mini-cylinder (with three routes inside and a skylight) to my right. Photo Amelie Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7421a.jpgIMG_7421aLooking up at the roof of Grotta dell’edera.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7515a.jpgIMG_7515aAmelie and I spelunking on the approach to Grotta dell’edera.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7601a.jpgIMG_7601aThe best part of Finale climbing was the ambiance. Eating phenomenal pizza in our garden in Finalborgo.2017-06-20T17:31:59+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/05/30/climbing-in-france-venasque/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7314a.jpgIMG_7314aLogan’s seconds away from becoming intimate with the right-most cannon. Note the citadel high above and the zig-zagging path that climbs up to it.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7307a.jpgIMG_7307aCastle of the Day – Entrevaux. This one was so spectacular it gets two pics….https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7125_a.jpgIMG_7125_aLogan getting in on the fun.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7271a.jpgIMG_7271aMidway up Vole, 7b. Misanthropies Therapeutiques is the next route left (following the flake system), and Aller Plus Haute is the second route left. Photo Logan Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7161a.jpgIMG_7161aObjectif Puree. Photo Amelie Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7011a.jpgIMG_7011aHigher on Petite Marie. Note the leaning wave of rock to Kate’s left—home to Misanthropies Therapeutiques, Aller Plus Haute, and Vole.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7006a.jpgIMG_7006aKate starting up Petite Marie, a gobsmacking 5.11c that charges up the right side of a towering swell of overhanging jugs.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7003_a.jpgIMG_7003_aKate cruising Beaucoup de Bruit Pour Rien (“A Lot of Noise for Nothing”), 6a+, on our first day at Venasque.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/img_7284a.jpgIMG_7284aNearing the top of Vole, 7b, at the French Limestone crag of Venasque. Photo Logan Anderson.2017-06-01T03:19:32+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/05/05/40-climbing-lessons/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_2010small.jpgIMG_2010smallhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/87_09-low.jpg87_09 lowMaximizing Fun on Lotus Flower Tower. We summited in the dark and got back to camp just before sunrise the next morning.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/fmarmsater_130410_2968_low.jpgfmarmsater_130410_2968_Lowhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_9625_edited-sharp_low.jpgIMG_9625_edited Sharp_lowhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20130425img_0333_edited_sharp_low.jpg20130425img_0333_edited_sharp_lowhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/adam-ondra_revelations1.jpgAdam-Ondra_RevelationsPhoto: Nick Clementhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/img_7326a3.jpgBaby steps!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/crux13.jpgCrux13Belief is essential!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/walk-with-logan.jpgWalk with LoganBaby Steps.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/logan-climbing-2012-003.jpgLogan Climbing 2012 003Its never too early...Logan records his performance between campus sets.2020-10-06T19:58:11+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/04/26/climbing-in-france-baume-rousse/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_7081.jpgIMG_7081Castle of the day – Logan playing with a Trebuchet at Chateaux des Baux. Also the inspiration for this weekend rest day project...https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_7111.jpgIMG_7111The cargo net, with Buis, etc in the background.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_7110.jpgIMG_7110Climbing through the arch.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_7109.jpgIMG_7109So-called Monkey Bridge.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_7105.jpgIMG_7105The suspension bridge.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_7107.jpgIMG_7107Still not clear if he’s happy or terrified. I think just really excited. I learned later that I was supposed to hook the rope through the metal hook-thing above Logan’s head as a directional. (St. Julien in the background.)https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_7101.jpgIMG_7101Starting up the first few iron rungs of the via ferrata. The look of half fear/half excitement in Logan’s eyes says it all.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_6961a.jpgIMG_6961aAnother pic of Rigpa. Photo Logan Andersonhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_6958_c.jpgIMG_6958_cNearing the crux on Rigpa. Photo Logan Andersonhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_6928_a-rigpa.jpgIMG_6928_a RigpaRigpa ou la Nature de l’esprit. Photo Logan Anderson.2017-04-26T16:05:54+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/04/13/climbing-in-france-st-leger/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_6916a.jpgIMG_6916aCastle of the day – Souze la Rousse, about an hour west of St Leger. This pic is our impression of every Black Sabbath album cover ever.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_7094a.jpgIMG_7094aKate climbing the classic “Piedra Salvage, XX” on our wet day. Note the (relatively for Europe) fractured rock.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_6858a.jpgIMG_6858aTufa wrangling on Barbule, 8a, St. Leger. Photo Logan Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_6853a.jpgIMG_6853aStarting up the sweeping wave of limestone on Barbule.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_7088a.jpgIMG_7088aPiedra Salvage, [xxx], and La Farce Tranquille sectors of St Leger. This pic was taken on our 2nd day at St Leger—note all the black streaks!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/img_6864a.jpgIMG_6864aPinching my way up the St Leger tufa classic, La Farce Tranquille.2017-04-13T18:33:41+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/03/14/julienne-salad-days/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/mvi_6827_moment7.jpgMVI_6827_Moment(7)Fine edging on Be Australian, 5.12a.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/mvi_6815_moment6.jpgMVI_6815_Moment(6)Scoping holds on The Boy Everybody Was Jealous Of, 5.12a. Photo Logan A.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/img_6810a.jpgIMG_6810aWorking up the headwall after surmounting the big roof on ...Julienne Salad (5.12b?) Photo Amelie Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/img_6805a.jpgIMG_6805aShaking out below the undercling roof exit on Booty Sweat, 5.11b. Photo Amelie Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/cream-wall-topo.jpgCream Wall Topo2017-04-12T17:03:48+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/02/07/training-for-9a-part-iii/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/img_0642.jpgimg_0642Standing below the world's first 9a, Wolfgang Gullich's legendary "Action Directe."https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/fall-2016-training-schedule.jpgfall-2016-training-scheduleFall 2016 Training Schedule.2017-03-09T18:12:46+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2017/01/12/training-for-9a-part-ii/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/img_3693a-e1484096015582.jpgimg_3693aI never fell on this powerful dyno in the first half of the May/June 2016 season, but by mid-June I was falling on it regularly—a clear sign of waning power.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/spring-2016-training-schedule.jpgspring-2016-training-scheduleTraining schedule for my May/June season.2017-01-18T01:35:19+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/12/14/new-routes-at-shelf-road/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/mvi_6560_moment27a.jpgmvi_6560_moment27aIf only my legs were as skinny as they appear in this photo.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/mvi_6560_moment8b.jpgmvi_6560_moment8bSticking the first of three big dynos on Treble Huck, 5.13b.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/mvi_6559_moment2a.jpgmvi_6559_moment2aEnjoying brilliant limestone in the crux of Satan’s Alley.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/mvi_6558_moment2b.jpgmvi_6558_moment2bClearing the final little bulge of Alpha Chino’s Chinos, 5.12b.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/n-gym-13-mar-11-048a.jpgn-gym-13-mar-11-048aApogee Pending.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/mvi_6560_moment18b.jpgmvi_6560_moment18bBetween dynos on Treble Huck, one of my new 5.13s at Shelf Road.2016-12-14T14:59:10+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/12/07/training-for-9a-part-i/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/extended-green-traverse.jpgextended-green-traverseThe pink line shows the extension to the Green Traverse, brining the hand-move count to 52.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/green-traverse.jpggreen-traverseMy standard, 32-move “Green Traverse”.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/winter-2016-pe-logs.jpgwinter-2016-pe-logsMy PE Log sheet from the winter 2016 season.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/winter-2016-training-schedule.jpgwinter-2016-training-scheduleMy Winter 2016 training Schedule, showing the programming of my 52-move circuit PE workouts.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/fall-2015-training-schedule.jpgfall-2015-training-scheduleMy Fall 2015 training Schedule, showing the programming of my PE workouts and my two PE experiments.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/fall-2015-pe-logs-p1.jpgfall-2015-pe-logs-p1My PE Log sheet from the three workouts I did using the standard Green Traverse during the Fall 2015 season.2017-01-12T20:48:52+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/11/29/aftermath/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/dsc_4713.jpgdsc_4713The first ascent of Strapped with Lats, 5.12c, at Aftermath. Photo Nicholas Zepeda.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/dsc_4625-pano-edit.jpgdsc_4625-pano-editJust after topping out the crux mantle of Aftermathematics, 5.12a. Photo Nicholas Zepeda.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/aftermath-topo1.jpgaftermath-topo1https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/mvi_6381_momenta.jpgmvi_6381_momentaCranking between incut crimps on the pumpy, slightly overhanging headwall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/1-mvi_6348_momentb.jpg1-mvi_6348_momentbReaching up to undercling the remains of the big flake. After matching the undercling, you have to make a huge reach to a 3-finger edge along the crescent shaped rail near the bottom of the lime streak.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/img_1776b.jpgimg_1776bThe Wall of the 90s' "last great roof problem" climbs out to the swath of dark brown stone ten feet left of Harlot.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/img_6365-cookie.jpgimg_6365-cookieAbout a week after sending Shadowboxing, this "9a Cookie" (complete with boxing gloves) showed up at my house, courtesy of my friends at Trango. Trango has meant a lot more to me than just free gear, and I really could not have made it to this level without their support and motivation.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/gopr3466.jpgDCIM100GOPROGOPR3466.High on my new jughaul Aftermathematics, 5.12a, at Aftermath. Photo Nicholas Zepeda.2016-11-29T14:11:13+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/11/15/training-for-9a-preface/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/kryptonite-topo-wide3.jpgkryptonite-topo-wide3xxxhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/img_4558a.jpgimg_4558aShadowboxing.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/img_3695a.jpgimg_3695aA looong way to go....2016-11-28T12:04:41+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/10/18/new-anderson-brothers-podcast/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/mike-schleierwasserfall.jpgmike-schleierwasserfallMike crushing at the Schleierwasserfall2016-10-19T00:33:47+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/09/26/mark-anderson-sends-shadowboxing-5-14d/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_3688b.jpgimg_3688bhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_3743a.jpgimg_3743aThe end of Shadowboxing's lower crux section. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_3688a.jpgimg_3688aShouldery, burly climbing low on the route. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_3789a.jpgimg_3789aFalling off at the Crimp Crux--an experience I was all-too familiar with. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_3783a.jpgimg_3783aAt the "Crimp Crux", eyeing the shallow crimp/pocket that had eluded me on 8 one-hang ascents.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_3765a.jpgimg_3765aMark Anderson making the third ascent of Shadowboxing, contender for Rifle's hardest route.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/sb-topo.jpgsb-topoShadowboxing climbs the gently overhanging sweep of porcelain limestone directly across from The Eighth Day.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_6340a.jpgimg_6340aBelow Shadowboxing after the send. Photo Shaun Corpron.2017-04-23T20:05:06+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/09/08/witchcraft-for-perfect-skin/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/img_6306.jpgIMG_6306I find it more comfortable to position the pan(s) around butt-height. Check back here next week for a detailed description of the 1-Tin Method I’m using in this photo.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/wiring-diagram.jpgWiring Diagramhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/09/std-method-pic.jpgStd method PicWire the system as shown in this pic and the following diagram. Note that this pic shows 4, 6v-batteries wired in series for a total of 24v. Don't start with 24v!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20130430img_0500_edited_sharp_low.jpg20130430img_0500_edited_sharp_lowSanding is a tried-and-true method of toughening finger skin, but it has limitations.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20130425img_0353_edited_sharp_low.jpg20130425img_0353_edited_sharp_lowAt crags like Smith Rock, where sharp holds abound, skin toughness can be the deciding factor.2018-11-23T22:06:06+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/08/24/review-of-the-latest-climbing-research/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/img_6288.jpgIMG_62882016-12-12T15:33:57+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/08/17/video-born-on-the-4th-of-july-14b/2016-08-20T00:24:05+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/06/21/european-vacation/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/2695327173_907244ca2c_z.jpg2695327173_907244ca2c_zhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/eurpoeanvacation_mf.jpgNATIONAL LAMPOON'S EUROPEAN VACATION, Jason Lively, Dana Hill, Beverly D'Angelo, Chevy Chase, 1985NATIONAL LAMPOON'S EUROPEAN VACATION, Jason Lively, Dana Hill, Beverly D'Angelo, Chevy Chase, 19852016-06-21T15:17:28+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/06/20/insurrection/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/img_1473.jpgIMG_1473https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/img_1538.jpgIMG_1538https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/img_1544.jpgIMG_1544https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/img_1558.jpgIMG_1558https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/107696332_large_9ba7db.jpg107696332_large_9ba7db2016-06-20T13:46:44+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/06/08/spring-sprain-summer-send/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/hb41.jpgHB4https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/hb4-e1465316879284.jpgHB4These are examples of Hangboard Maintenance training sessions.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/hb3-e1465316833970.jpgHB3The train-wreck of a hangboard phase that my season turned into.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/the-example.jpgThe examplehttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/total-recall.jpgTotal Recallhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/ankle-montage.jpgAnkle Montagehttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/cherry-pie.jpgCherry PieCelebrating the send at the Cherry Pie Capitol of Colorado...in Big Thompson Canyon on the way to the Monastery. I got a cherry pie!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/shaun-pic2.jpgShaun Pic2Setting up for the final redpoint crux dyno.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/shaun-pic-1.jpgShaun Pic 1Making the long right hand cross move to setup under the Africa Plate.2016-08-17T17:41:20+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/05/25/fabulous-first-flatiron/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/fi-1.jpgFI 1https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/fi4.jpgFI4https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/fi-2.jpgFI 2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/img_1157.jpgIMG_1157https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/img_1155.jpgIMG_1155https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/img_1154.jpgIMG_1154https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/img_1153.jpgIMG_1153https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/img_1151.jpgIMG_1151https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/img_1148.jpgIMG_1148https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/img_1146.jpgIMG_11462016-05-27T00:12:15+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/05/03/the-beta/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/smith-march-2009-111a.jpgSmith March 2009 111aFred Gomez cool and collected on his send of Smooth Boy, 13b, Smith Rock, OR.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/training-binder-pics4-oldest-remaining-hb-log1-e1459636856363.jpgTraining Binder Pics4 Oldest remaining HB LogThe oldest hard-copy sheet I have, for a hangboard workout in June 2003.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/training-binder-pics1.jpgTraining Binder Pics1This is what perseverance looks like. Each blue tab represents a season of training, although I’m slacking on adding tabs—the most recent one is from Fall 2012.2016-05-06T02:13:46+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/tools-for-rock-climbing-training/the-making-of-a-rock-prodigy/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/the-periodixed-training-calendar.jpgThe periodixed training calendarThe periodized training calendar.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/campus-board-training-log.jpgcAMPUS BOARD TRAINING LOGCampus Board Training Log: https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/a-sweet-campus-board.jpgA SWEET CAMPUS BOARDA sweet campus board.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/training-log-for-advanced-hb-workout.jpgTraining Log for Advanced HB workoutTraining Log for the "Advanced" Hangboard Workout.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/hb-setup-with-weight-removed.jpgHB setup with weight removedHangboard setup with weight removed.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/hb-setup-with-weight-added.jpgHB setup with weight addedHangboard setup with weight added.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/beginner-hb-workout-log.jpgBeginner HB Workout LogTraining Log for the "Beginner Hangboard Workout"https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/habitat-of-a-rp.jpgHabitat of a RPThe habitat of a "rockprodigy"2022-12-27T20:22:47+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/01/14/the-original-campus-board/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_0621_0033a.jpgMVI_0621_0033aUnworthy author about to be chewed up and spit out by Wallstreet.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0536lo.jpg???????????????????????????????Thank you Campus Center!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0522alo-e1413308080444.jpg???????????????????????????????The Campus Board in profile.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0535alo.jpg???????????????????????????????Campus Board steepness: approximately 12 degreees overhanging.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0525zoom-e1413307919361.jpg???????????????????????????????The distance from the top of the fourth rung to the top of the second rung: 40 cm.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0525alo-e1413307839825.jpg???????????????????????????????Measuring the spacing from the top of the fourth rung to the top of the first rung (63.5 cm).https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0532alo-e1413307747802.jpg???????????????????????????????Two-finger pockets carved into the largest rungs.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0524alo.jpg???????????????????????????????The back of the Campus Board.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0521lo.jpg???????????????????????????????Thre front or business side of the Campus Board.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0538lo.jpg???????????????????????????????The Campus Board2016-04-28T00:57:05+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/04/14/a-season-of-new-routes/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/mvi_5719_0007a.jpgMVI_5719_0007aEntering the high crux of Where Eagles Dare. This send was somewhat epic—on my second go I sent to one move past this point, and as I was midway through the last significant move, the hold I was hanging from exploded. After I pulled back on, I found another hold that worked just as well, but at that point I was six burns into the day, and wasn’t sure I would have the energy for another quality attempt. On the next go I barely made it to the same spot, sure I would fall on the final dyno to the lip of the tower, but I went for it anyway and somehow managed to stick it.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/mvi_5760_0002a.jpgMVI_5760_0002aThe rock on the arête is outstanding, with beige quartzite intrusions reminiscent of Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows. The line offers true arête climbing, with many slaps and heel hooks.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/img_3183.jpgIMG_3183The west face of The Talon. Where Eagles Dare climbs the arête just left of center, essentially following the lime green lichen streak.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/assembling-bolts-w-ameli2.jpgAssembling bolts w Ameli2The original Chocolate Bandit helps daddy camouflage some hardware. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/mvi_5708_0006a.jpgMVI_5708_0006aIrony Man starts up this sweet arête, but deteriorates a bit on the upper half. To the left is another ultra-techy 5.12, Iron Maiden.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/mvi_5707_0019a.jpgMVI_5707_0019aClimbing Good Time To Be Pretty, 12a, the best line at the Iron Buttress. The name is a Tina Fey punchline. Just to the left is an excellent 5.10 jughaul, Chocolate Bandit, named for my daughter Amelie who is almost scheming ways to steal my Dove Dark Chocolates.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/img_5779.jpgIMG_5779Kate cruising another long slab at the same cliff.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/img_5773a-e1459195887549.jpgIMG_5773aKate enjoying some steep, crimpy slabbing on great rock.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/mvi_5766_0019a.jpgMVI_5766_0019aPhenomenal rock on (easily) the best cliff I’ve personally “discovered”.2016-04-15T14:53:23+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/04/01/anderson-brothers-interview-at-paleotreats/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/sept-09-292a.jpgSept 09 292aAnderson Brothers thinking about training.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/mvi_5767_0032a.jpgMVI_5767_0032aThis photo has nothing to do with the adjacent text. Sticking the crux dyno on Nailed It, 12d, at the Sterling Wall.2016-04-16T14:11:41+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/03/01/putting-the-project-on-a-pedestal/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/margalef-127a.jpgMargalef (127)aIn America, milestone grades like 5.12a, 5.13a, and 5.14a can seem intimidating, perhaps even influencing the way routes are graded. In Europe the same routes would be graded 7a+, 7c+ and 8b+, which to European climbers have no particular significance. Climbing Magic Festival in Margalef https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/ma135.jpgMA135Enjoying the belay on the nut-shriveling south face of Mt Waddington in 2000. Mike talked me into many situations this.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/td2-rrg-dec08.jpgTD2 RRG Dec08In 2008, I joined Mike for a short trip to the Red. While wrapping up a nice streak of on-sights, I debated whether to spend my last go of the trip on the wall’s classic 13a, Table of Colors—a grade I had never before tried to on sight. Mike correctly pointed out, “one thing is certain, you will never on-sight a 5.13 if you never try one.” Table of Colors climbs up to and along the chalky rail in the upper-left corner (while Mike cruises The Dinosaur).https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/mike_heading_up_towards_th_3a.jpgMike_heading_up_towards_th_3aMike traversing out to the start of the Monster Offwidth on Freerider, May 2004.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/img_3779f-11x14-version_a.jpgIMG_3779f 11x14 version_aTo Bolt Or Not To Be sits in the middle of Smith's "Main Area". Not a good place to hide from the crowds. If you're wondering, "will Mark ever tire of posting pics of himself on To Bolt?" the answer is "no!"2016-03-02T20:14:41+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/02/09/the-anatomy-of-a-limit-boulder-problem/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mvi_3491-blue-crimp-stick-zoom_0002.jpgMVI_3491 Blue Crimp Stick Zoom_0002Hold #4 with a hand for scale.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mvi_3491-blue-crimp-stick-zoom_0001.jpgMVI_3491 Blue Crimp Stick Zoom_0001Hold #4https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mvi_3490-lh-red-sidepull-zoom_0002.jpgMVI_3490 LH Red Sidepull Zoom_0002Hold #3 with a hand for scale.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mvi_3490-lh-red-sidepull-zoom_0001.jpgMVI_3490 LH Red Sidepull Zoom_0001Hold #3https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/black-yellow-topo1.jpgBlack yellow Topo"Yellowjacket" Topohttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mvi_3489-lh-start-hold-zoom_0002.jpgMVI_3489 LH Start Hold Zoom_0002Hold #2 with a hand for scale.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mvi_3489-lh-start-hold-zoom_0001.jpgMVI_3489 LH Start Hold Zoom_0001Hold #2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mvi_3488-rh-red-sidepull-zoom_0002.jpgMVI_3488 RH Red Sidepull Zoom_0002Hold #3 with a hand for scale.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mvi_3488-rh-red-sidepull-zoom_0001.jpgMVI_3488 RH Red Sidepull Zoom_0001Hold #3https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/black-yellow-topo.jpgBlack Yellow Topo"Yellowjacket" Topo2016-02-21T04:35:30+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/01/27/guest-article-see-the-send-use-visualization-to-up-your-climbing/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/bishop-2009-050.jpgBishop 2009 050https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/1_hiking.jpgDCIM100GOPROGOPR0154.AppleMarkhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/5_phil-bouldering3.jpg5_phil bouldering3https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/3_phil-bouldering1.jpg3_phil bouldering1https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/2_bishop.jpg2_bishophttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/4_phil-bouldering2.jpg4_phil bouldering22016-01-28T07:48:03+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/02/19/climbing-with-an-infant/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/2009-04-25-rrg-11.jpg2009-04-25 RRG (11)Kids luv the crag! Lucas Anderson at the RRG at 4.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/2009-05-02-rrg-14.jpg2009-05-02 RRG (14)A cheap play tent like this can be very useful, especially when they become ambulatory.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/red-nov-09-301-axel-e1392176874553.jpgRed Nov 09 301 AxelMike's son Axel at the Red at 9 months old.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/sinks-19-mar-11-013-sam.jpgSinks 19 Mar 11 013 SamSam climbing with his centaur dad Steve Bechtel in Sinks Canyon.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/img_7054-bouncy-seat-amelie.jpgIMG_7054 bouncy seat amelieAmelie climbing near Estes Park, CO at about 9 weeks old.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/n-gym-19-feb-11-033.jpgN Gym 19 Feb 11 033Logan at Shelf Road on his 39th day. At this age, babies sleep as much as 16 hours a day.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/n-gym-19-feb-11-007-alcove.jpgN Gym 19 Feb 11 007 AlcoveLogan perched under a low roof at Shelf Road to protect from rock fall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/n-gym-1-mar-11-027-bouncy-seat-logan.jpgN Gym 1 Mar 11 027 bouncy seat loganOur trusted bouncy seat has served us well for 3 years. Note the stick clip and down jacket poised to create shade in the upper left.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/backup-binky.jpgBackup BinkyTwo-time mother Janelle Anderson cruising "Bacup Binky" in Sinks Canyon, Wyoming.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/sinks-25-march-11-006-lanyard1.jpgSinks 25 March 11 006 lanyard1The orange lanyard shown here is girth-hitched to the blue pacifier (on the right end), and then clips to baby's outfit (on the left end).2018-03-06T22:20:28+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/01/20/adjustable-hangboard-mount-3-0-easiest-yet/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/hanging-forge.jpgHanging ForgeThe forge hanging on the 2x10.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/back-of-2x10-with-brackets.jpgBack of 2x10 with bracketsThe back view.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/blank-2x10.jpgBlank 2x10https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/finished-glued-hb-brackets.jpgFinished Glued HB bracketshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/deformed-bracket-post-testing.jpgDeformed bracket post testinghttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/after-test-failure.jpgAfter Test failurehttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/2x4-loading-condition.jpg2x4 loading conditionClose up of 2x4 mount.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/testing-of-2x4-mount.jpgTesting of 2x4 mountThe RPTC with bracket mounted over a 2x4 for testing.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mounted-boards.jpgMounted Boardshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/mts-test-setup.jpgMTS Test Setup2016-02-13T14:43:22+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2016/01/12/bolt-barrage/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/banana-stand_edited-for-mp_page_3.jpgBanana Stand_edited for MP_Page_3Banana Stand Mini Guide Page 3https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/banana-stand_edited-for-mp_page_2.jpgBanana Stand_edited for MP_Page_2Banana Stand Mini Guide Page 2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/banana-stand_edited-for-mp_page_1.jpgBanana Stand_edited for MP_Page_1Banana Stand Mini Guide Page 1https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/banana-stand-topo-final.jpgBanana Stand Topo FinalBanana Stand Topohttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/img_5264a-e1452371209145.jpgIMG_5264aThe area also boasts a number of steep slabs with bomber, well-featured rock like this.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/img_5238a.jpgIMG_5238aAnother cliff, this one composed of bullet-hard quartzite. The leaning arete left of center will easily be in the 5.14-range, and to the right of that are five more lines that I would guess will range from 5.8 to 5.12.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/img_5296a-e1452370563554.jpgIMG_5296aAnother section of the previous cliff from below, with bolts in.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/img_5282a-e1452370065437.jpgIMG_5282aWhen I saw this wall I knew I'd hit pay dirt. Note the rope which gives an idea of the wall's steepness. The rock on this cliff is flawless.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/ccc-black-book-topos_page_1a.jpgCCC BLack Book Topos_Page_1aThese lines will all be really fun jug hauls. There are two other new lines at this crag not shown.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/img_4980a-e1452368903789.jpgIMG_4980aOne of the new crags I bolted in late November, tentatively named "Iron Buttress".2016-03-05T02:28:41+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/12/30/introducing-the-rock-prodigy-forge-user-experience-survey-win-some-shwag/2016-09-04T06:20:08+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/10/28/slide-show-oct-31-at-shelf-road/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/flight-of-the-phoenix-pic.jpgFlight of the Phoenix picHigh on the First Ascent of Shelf Road's hardest climb, Flight of the Phoenix, 5.14a/b.2015-11-03T04:17:34+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/10/21/spain-part-3/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/traffic.jpgtraffichttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/seafood-lunch-2.jpgseafood lunch 2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/seafood-lunch-1.jpgseafood lunch 1We went to a seafood restaurant where you could pick exactly https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/la-rumbla-2.jpgla rumbla 2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/la-rumbla-1.jpgla rumbla 1La Rumbla in the morning was the best time to visit because it wasn't jammed packed with peoplehttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/donuts.jpgdonutshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/first-slide.jpgFirst SlideMy presentation from the conference in Barcelona: The 7th Asian-Pacific Congress on Sports Technology.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150924_1935581.jpg20150924_193558https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_00251.jpgIMG_0025https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_0064.jpgIMG_00642015-10-21T20:49:05+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/strength/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20130426img_0112_edited_sharp_low.jpg20130426img_0112_edited_sharp_lowMany routes, such as Chain Reaction, 5.12c, require finger strength. Alan Watts returns to this catalyst of sport climbing, 30 years after the first ascent.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/fullertonimages-130916-1327-edit.jpgfullertonimages-130916-1327-edit.jpgA well-configured hangboard with the right accessories is hands-down the best way to train finger strength for climbing.2017-12-04T06:59:37+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/10/15/spain-part-2-cobblestones-milestones-at-montserrat/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150924_0740561.jpg20150924_074056https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150924_0743572.jpg20150924_074357https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150926_202101.jpg20150926_202101https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150924_193558.jpg20150924_193558https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150924_132406.jpg20150924_132406https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150923_202936.jpg20150923_202936https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150922_142937.jpg20150922_142937https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150922_141633.jpg20150922_141633https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150922_1412021.jpg20150922_141202https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/20150922_1351161.jpg20150922_1351162015-10-16T15:31:58+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/10/07/spain-part-1-not-just-tapas-tufas/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_95911.jpgIMG_9591https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/paret-de-les-bruixes-millenium.jpgParet de les Bruixes Milleniumhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_9712.jpgIMG_9712https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_0174.jpgIMG_0174https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_0170.jpgIMG_0170https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_0156.jpgIMG_0156https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_0153.jpgIMG_0153https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_0148.jpgIMG_0148https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_0147.jpgIMG_0147https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/img_0144.jpgIMG_01442015-10-14T22:33:03+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/09/22/kids-climbing-wall/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3900a.jpgIMG_3900aLucian on the Monkey Bars while Mark S, Ayla, Logan (and Amelie, hidden) play in the slab tunnel.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3894a.jpgIMG_3894aMayhem! From L to R: Ayla topping out the slab, Logan rolling a basketball across the catwalk, Mike J supervising, Xander running, Mark S contemplating a sit start, Lucian running across the high platform, and Quinn coming out of the slide tunnel.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3821a.jpgIMG_3821a…and the slabby left half.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3819.jpgIMG_3819A closer look at the right half…https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3820a.jpgIMG_3820aThe finished product.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3773a.jpgIMG_3773aInstalling panels. From L to R, the wall angles are 80 degrees, 100 degrees, and vert.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3770a.jpgIMG_3770aLogan about to test the slide tunnel. I created the curvature at the bottom of the slide by laminating two sheets of ¼” plywood together.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3729a.jpgIMG_3729aGluing wainscoted (whiteboard) panels onto the slide. It took as much effort to build the slide as it did to build the rest of the wall! But it was worth it—the slide is by far the most popular feature. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3725.jpgIMG_3725Painting panels. I had a bunch of scrap OSB lying around, and I really wanted to maximize re-use instead of scrapping it and buying new sheets. In the end I only had to buy one new panel (but lots of paint).https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_3724a.jpgIMG_3724aA look at the Monkey Bars that connect the two walls.2023-02-26T23:58:23+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-climbing-testimonials/2015-09-11T19:57:37+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/09/03/the-worlds-most-technologically-advanced-finger-training-system-the-forge/2016-10-23T03:34:27+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/about-us/mike-anderson/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_6599.jpgIMG_6599https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_2104.jpgIMG_2104https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_6165.jpgIMG_61652017-10-16T14:27:20+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/08/19/thunder-strike-part-ii-the-exciting-conclusion/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/legacy3.jpgA001_C039_0614XXPulling the second part of the big roof. The chicken heads are AWESOME!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/legacy2.jpgA001_C037_0614HQPulling the first roof on The Legacy - Chris Alstrin photo.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/legacy1.jpgA001_C027_061404Halfway through the crux sequence on The Legacy. The crux ends with a wild dyno left to a good hold below the hanging draw.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_1623.jpgIMG_1623Axel bouldering with some USAFA cadets below the Brown Wall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_1207.jpgIMG_1207Axel working his "proj", a super-fun 5.5 slab.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_1612.jpgIMG_1612Janelle Anderson cruising "Chocolate Thunder (12b)".https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_1199.jpgIMG_1199Relieved at reaching the top of the wall. The features are incredible!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_1191.jpgIMG_1191Climbing up over the "Mega Project" the first time. The rope drag was heinous!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/img_1180.jpgIMG_1180Exploring the crux of the "Mega Project" on my first foray up the route. Note the "Thumb Crimp", which would be crucial beta, and wore a whole in my thumb.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/legacy4.jpgA001_C039_0614XXMike Anderson on his new Thunder Ridge route "The Legacy, 5.14a"2015-08-21T13:58:42+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/07/13/thunder-strike-part-1/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/thunder-ridge-980001.jpgThunder Ridge 980001Climbing in Thunder Ridge's Wasp Canyon in 1998, when I was a USAF Academy Cadet.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_1145.jpgIMG_1145Nearing the big flake that leads to the neighboring "Schmausser Traverse" route...the FA is in the bag now!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_1137.jpgIMG_1137A crazy-long undercling move to a good edge.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_1128.jpgIMG_1128Getting into the cruxier moves, with long reaches between less-positive holds.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_1122.jpgIMG_1122Check out the sculpted incut holds!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_1119.jpgIMG_1119Psyching up to try for the first free ascent of Game of Drones.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_1289.jpgIMG_1289Finished with the hard climbing, and ready to enjoy the cruiser chicken heads that lead to the chains.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_1276.jpgIMG_1276Some funky slab moves.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_1275.jpgIMG_12755.11-ish face climbing after the crux. This bolt and the next one were not present during the FA, but I was able to get a weird cam placement in the horizontal crack feature above the next bolt.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_1265.jpgIMG_1265Continuing the taxing, technical climbing exiting the crux sequence.2015-08-18T17:07:13+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/11/26/training-efficiently/2015-08-05T00:02:48+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/07/29/new-indy-pass-5-14/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/mvi_4153-ca-send-p2-17-jul-15_0001a.jpgMVI_4153 CA Send P2 17 Jul 15_0001aDressed for the occasion.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/mvi_4153-ca-send-p2-17-jul-15_0015a.jpgMVI_4153 CA Send P2 17 Jul 15_0015aStaring down the ensuing heel hook on the final boulder problem.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/mvi_4151-ca-send-p1-17-jul-15_0051a.jpgMVI_4151 CA Send P1 17 Jul 15_0051aA short, insecure boulder problem guards a bivy-sized ledge rest.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/mvi_4151-ca-send-p1-17-jul-15_0038a.jpgMVI_4151 CA Send P1 17 Jul 15_0038aTricky footwork and burly pinching in the crux of Captain America.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/mvi_4151-ca-send-p1-17-jul-15_0032a.jpgMVI_4151 CA Send P1 17 Jul 15_0032aThe crux of Captain America, Independence Pass, Colorado.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/mvi_4044_0007a.jpgMVI_4044_0007aIf the last pic didn't convince you, surely this one will!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/mvi_4043_0022a.jpgMVI_4043_0022aTrust me, there's a Grizzly Bear in there somewhere.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_4086a.jpgIMG_4086aBlack Bear in Grand Teton National Park.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_4146.jpgIMG_4146…and Maroon Lake (Aspen area), the only one he seemed to think was cold.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/img_4122.jpgIMG_4122…Weller Lake (Indy Pass)…2015-07-30T00:48:47+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/rock-climbing-training-motivation/tales/2015-07-22T11:57:18+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/07/01/bridge-cycle-for-summer-training/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3820a.jpgIMG_3820aA low key summer season also allows me to catch up on house work and spend more time with my kids. These two goals converged in early June, when I built this climbing wall for my kids. [more details on that project to come]https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3878-smear-hunter-send_0007a.jpgMVI_3878 Smear Hunter send_0007aRecently I’ve found summer is a great time for developing new routes like The Smear Hunter, 5.13c, at the Bunker. During prime seasons I’m very focused on my projects and refrain from anything that interferes, like the often strenuous work of cleaning and bolting new routes. During summers like this one, my goals are modest enough that I can afford to divert some energy towards route development.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/bridge-cycle-chart.jpgBridge Cycle Charthttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/grand-ol-opry2.jpgGrand Ol Opry2Over the summer of 2011 I trained as usual and focused on working Grand Ol’ Opry, located in a relatively cool, shady alcove at nearly 8000-feet.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3848-lou-reed-send-20-jun-15_0037a.jpgMVI_3848 Lou Reed send 20 Jun 15_0037aChill summer seasons like this also allow me to explore new areas like Mill Creek Crag (which is about an hour west of Denver). When I’m super-fit I’m reluctant to go places I haven’t thoroughly scoped, for fear of “wasting” a precious day of peak fitness. Completing the First Free Ascent of Lou Reed, 5.13b.2015-07-01T16:17:15+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/06/23/new-ccc-crag-another-ffa/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3697_0004a.jpgMVI_3697_0004aPulling over the final roof on the FA of Hellcat.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3695_0006a.jpgMVI_3695_0006aMoving out to the flat edge on the direct finish.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3668_0004a.jpgMVI_3668_0004aMid-way through the crux, making a big reach out to the lip of the largest roof.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3690-harlot-send-27-may-15_0009a.jpgMVI_3690 Harlot send 27 May 15_0009aThe Vixen extension climbs through the big roof system. Sustained, delicate headwall climbing just above the crux lip pull.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3644-afghan-send-22-may-15_0088.jpgMVI_3644 Afghan send 22 May 15_0088Fun jug-hauling on the knife-edge of Nautical-Themed Pashmina Afghan.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3644-afghan-send-22-may-15_0029.jpgMVI_3644 Afghan send 22 May 15_0029The exposed start of Nautical-Themed Pashmina Afghan.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3602_0028.jpgMVI_3602_0028Interesting face climbing midway up I F’ed A Mermaid.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3581-this-aint-seaworld-send-17-may-15_0053.jpgMVI_3581 This Ain't Seaworld send 17 May 15_0053About to top out the Sharks Fin on the FA of This Ain’t Seaworld.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3581-this-aint-seaworld-send-17-may-15_0032.jpgMVI_3581 This Ain't Seaworld send 17 May 15_0032Exiting the big left-facing corner midway up This Ain’t Seaworld.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/mvi_3599_0021.jpgMVI_3599_0021Near the end of the opening boulder problem.2015-06-29T20:40:46+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/06/18/the-lazy-h-climbing-barn/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/east-end-of-north-wall-w-dim1.jpgEast End of North Wall w DimThe roof system on the east end of the North Wall. This got very little use until the last year or so, when I accumulated several outdoor roof projects. Since then I’ve made a point to do several Limit Boulder Problems on this section, along with a couple problems in my Warmup Boulder Ladder.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/west-end-of-south-wall-w-dim2.jpgWest End of South Wall w Dim2The west end of the South Wall hosts a Campus Board, overhanging 15 degrees, and a vertical panel, 4-feet wide by almost 12-feet tall. The vertical panel is useless except as a buffer between the Campus Board and the East Wall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/east-end-of-south-wall-w-dim2.jpgEast End of South Wall w Dim2The 16-feet wide, 8-degree overhanging panel on the east end of the South Wall. This is prime ARC and warmup terrain. It also has a few Limit Boulder problems that are generally thin and hard on my skin.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/barn-exterior-with-dimensions2.jpgBarn exterior with dimensions2The Lazy H. Note how the barn is built to match the sloping hillside.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3756.jpgIMG_3756The Lazy H is essential a long corridor, and occasional I will smack into the South Wall when stick big dynos to the top of the North Wall. Also, it gets crowded in here really quick.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/center-of-north-wall-w-dim.jpgCenter of North Wall w DimThe Money Wall, my happy place for Limit Bouldering.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/w-end-of-n-wall.jpgW end of N WallThe west end of the north wall. Pretty much useless, although it allows for a novel arête feature. I’d much rather have 40 square feet more of 35-degree overhang…https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/west-wall-w-dim.jpgWest Wall w DimThe vertical West Wall of the Lazy H. This wall is great for warming up and ARCing on small, insecure hand and footholds. It has a few boulder problems that I climbed regularly when training for To Bolt Or Not To Be. They haven’t been touched in the six-plus years since :)https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/east-wall-w-dim.jpgEast Wall w DimThe vertical East Wall of the Lazy H. Good for my kids, but otherwise designed to not interfere with the South and North Walls.2015-06-18T17:27:35+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/01/27/double-stout/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/ds-topo-e1422316694828.jpgDS TopoDouble Stout begins up the near-vertical wall, darts out the big roof, and then weaves through tiered overhangs to the top of the cliff.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_3661_0120.jpgMVI_3661_0120Finishing up the slab. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_3666_0015.jpgMVI_3666_0015Beginning up the excellent tiered headwall. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_3661_0011.jpgMVI_3661_0011Smearing up the first slab crux on miserable bumps. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_3661_0054.jpgMVI_3661_0054The brilliant calico slab. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_3665_0014.jpgMVI_3665_0014The iron cross move into the roof. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_3665_0067.jpgMVI_3665_0067Controlling the violent swing after cutting my feet off the ledge. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_3665_0122.jpgMVI_3665_0122Walking my feet out to the lip. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_3665_0156.jpgMVI_3665_0156Pulling the lip, feet first and almost completely inverted. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/mvi_3665_0174.jpgMVI_3665_0174Working along the lip to reach better holds. Photo Mike Anderson.2015-06-12T16:03:45+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/03/10/delivered-from-purgatory/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_2709a.jpg???????????????????????????????Purgatory looks something like this. Bystanders will say it looks beautiful. From the inside looking out, all you see is pain.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/mvi_2899_0055a.jpgMVI_2899_0055ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/mvi_2899_0210a.jpgMVI_2899_0210ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/mvi_2906_0134a.jpgMVI_2906_0134ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/direct-start-topo.jpgDirect Start Topohttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/snowfall-pic.jpgSnowfall Pichttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/mvi_2899_0323a.jpgMVI_2899_0323ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/mvi_2903_0230a.jpgMVI_2903_0230ahttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/mvi_2899_0258a.jpgMVI_2899_0258a2023-09-28T08:16:04+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/05/14/clear-creeks-wildest-free-climb-part-1/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/bot4oj-topo2-e1431576470608.jpgBot4oJ Topo2Born on the 4th of July, fully equipped and ready for action.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/bot4oj-topo-e1431576111601.jpgBot4oJ TopoBorn on the 4th of July, fully equipped and ready for action.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_0130a.jpgIMG_0130aJuly 4, 2014, taking a short break after installing the bolts (my trusty Hilti is hanging from a bolt on the lower left).https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_9567a.jpgIMG_9567aA closer look at the roof system on the right side of the Bunker. The fixed gear is on Full Metal Jacket and 14:59.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mark-2-flat-web.jpgMark 2 - Flat - WebThe stellar jug finish of Full Metal Jacket. Photo Keith North.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_9843a.jpgIMG_9843aKeith North crushing Apoca-Lips Now! (Apologies for the fixed rope)https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_9405a.jpgIMG_9405aCharlie Don’t Surf climbs the black-streaked dihedral in the center of the frame. Note the large tilted roof that joins Charlie from the left. This would become Apoca Lips Now!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_3459a.jpgIMG_3459aThe view from The Bunker. The massive central cliff is Creek Side.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_2971a.jpgIMG_2971aThe Bunker2015-06-12T16:02:35+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/05/21/clear-creeks-wildest-free-climb-part-2/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_3623.jpgIMG_3623“Foot stabs” like this require good core strength to keep the hips tight to the wall in order to maintain pressure on the extended foot.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/img_3620.jpgIMG_3620A "bicycle" maneuver.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/04-mvi_0195_0002a.jpg04 MVI_0195_0002aClearing the first roof.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/64-mvi_3475-bot4oj-send-part-b_0097c.jpg64 MVI_3475 Bot4oJ Send Part B_0097cSuccess! Stepping up onto the slab.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/60-mvi_3475-bot4oj-send-part-b_0073a.jpg60 MVI_3475 Bot4oJ Send Part B_0073aShaking out at the lip, contemplating the mantel.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/62-mvi_3475-bot4oj-send-part-b_0085b.jpg62 MVI_3475 Bot4oJ Send Part B_0085bThrowing my left toe up onto the lip in an attempt to mantel onto the slab.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/20-mvi_3447_0002a.jpg20 MVI_3447_0002aA big reach out to "the pod".https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/03-mvi_3443_0012a.jpg03 MVI_3443_0012aReeling my feet back onto the wall after the dyno to the lip of the first roof.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/41-mvi_3475-bot4oj-send-part-b_0031a.jpg41 MVI_3475 Bot4oJ Send Part B_0031aStabbing my foot out to the "Knob Garden" at the lip.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_0196_0005a.jpgMVI_0196_0005aAn awkward stance in the crook of the visor.2015-06-12T16:02:08+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/05/27/functional-core-training/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/40-mvi_3447_0010b.jpg40 MVI_3447_0010bFront Lever strength can help when moving into, or out of, horizontal positions like this, where your feet are extended far from your hands.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_3665_0026a.jpgMVI_3665_0026aI find the Wings exercise is quite helpful for shoulder gaston moves like this.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/ab-roller.jpgAb Roller2015-06-29T20:26:04+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/06/04/more-new-routes-and-the-paradox-of-the-first-ascent/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/bunker-topo-with-my-routes-highlighted.jpgBunker topo with my routes highlightedTopo of The Bunker with “my“ routes highlighted in yellow.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/topo-of-just-charlie-and-fury.jpgTopo of just Charlie and FuryCharlie Don’t Surf is the on the left, the new addition is on the right.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_3573-fury-send-15-may-15_0064a.jpgMVI_3573 Fury Send 15 May 15_0064aGroping for better holds near the top of the cave.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_3573-fury-send-15-may-15_0045a.jpgMVI_3573 Fury Send 15 May 15_0045aBeginning the final obstacle, a 12-foot concave belly-shaped roof.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_3573-fury-send-15-may-15_0005a.jpgMVI_3573 Fury Send 15 May 15_0005aSticking a long dyno near the start.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_3573-fury-send-15-may-15_0025a.jpgMVI_3573 Fury Send 15 May 15_0025aPulling through the sustained overlap section at mid-height.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_3533-charlie-send-13-may-15_0011_photoshopped_edited.jpgMVI_3533 Charlie Send 13 May 15_0011_photoshopped_editedLatching a tough campus move at the end of the crux.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_3533-charlie-send-13-may-15_0034_photoshopped_edited.jpgMVI_3533 Charlie Send 13 May 15_0034_photoshopped_editedFinishing up the brilliant quartzite panel on the first free ascent.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_3562_0011_photoshopped_edited.jpgMVI_3562_0011_photoshopped_editedEntering the crux bulge section.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/mvi_9850-screen-shot_edited.jpgMVI_9850 Screen Shot_editedAttempting Charlie in June 2014.2015-06-12T16:00:48+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/06/10/designing-a-home-training-wall/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/limit-bouldering-25-sep-12-006_0005a.jpgLimit Bouldering 25 Sep 12 006_0005aLimit Bouldering on my home wall -- "The Lazy H Barn"https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/wall-steepness-graphic.jpgWall Steepness GraphicSteeper walls provide more travel (but don't let that be the driving factor in your wall design). https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/route-steepness-analysis150dpi.pngRoute Steepness Analysis150dpiPNG 150dpihttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3752a-e1433782325939.jpgIMG_3752axxxxhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3748a.jpgIMG_3748aA slightly overhanging wall like this one can be used for both ARCing and Limit Bouldering. Include an assortment of large holds for ARCing, and small, realistic holds for Limit Bouldering. However, the disadvantage of less steep walls is that they will provide less climbing travel (in the direction of the wall) for a given ceiling height. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/img_3728.jpgIMG_3728The Lazy H Climbing Barn. Not a bad venue—isolated, with ceilings up to 12-feet high, and located at a nice cool altitude of 7400-feet. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20130505img_0707_edited_sharp.jpg20130505img_0707_edited_sharpThe author climbing Smith Rock’s To Bolt Or Not To Be2015-06-11T13:06:06+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/04/15/rock-prodigy-survey-last-call/2015-04-20T03:08:53+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/tools-for-rock-climbing-training/2015-04-14T17:29:16+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/04/08/desert-spring-part-2-zion-canyon/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_0927.jpgIMG_0927Pitch 2 of "Rub it Raw" - a gorgeous splitter finger crack that ranges from #2 TCU to #1 for most of the way. It pinches down tighter for a technical crux right near the end!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_0972.jpgIMG_0972Janelle starting up the OUTSTANDING route, Inner Chi ~ at the Kung Fu Theater crag.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_0980.jpgIMG_0980Celebrating the send with Brian.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_0955.jpgIMG_0955Inner Chi - an amazing 5.11 that Brian established years ago. Who knew Zion had climbing like this? Brian did!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_0966.jpgIMG_0966Axel and Lillian becoming great friends in the "Kung Fu Theater".https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_0938.jpgIMG_0938The "Larson/Farr", and amazing 5.11- splitter hand crack.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_0933.jpgIMG_0933View of the West Temple, Alter of Sacrifice and Streaked Wall from the Confluence Crag.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_0923.jpgIMG_0923Scoping out "Rub it Raw" from the Great Arch overlook, the day before the climb.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_5472.jpgIMG_5472Pitch 5 of Rub it Raw - Another striking splitter, that is slightly offset and varied in size. The crux pinches down to tips, and requires bold climbing above nuts ~ always an exciting proposition in Zion's soft rock.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_5471.jpgIMG_5471Pitch 4 of Rub it Raw - Starting from a nice ledge, it climbs a slightly overhanging, arching splitter that starts with 0.5 camalots and widens to 0.75. These are often considered the toughest sizes to jam, and promised to be a very challenging pitch.2015-04-10T05:20:28+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/04/01/desert-spring-part-1-escalante-canyon-co/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/img_0926.jpgIMG_0926A captivating splitter in Zion Canyon that had haunted my dreams for eight years. Will it go free???2015-04-01T18:37:33+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/03/04/please-take-our-survey/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/elements-of-rptm2.jpgelements of RPTM2Comparing the importance of each element of the RPTM. The highest score possible would be a "3.0".https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/elements-of-rptm.jpgelements of RPTMComparing the importance of each element of the RPTM. The highest score possible would be a "3.0".https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/rptm-improvement-amount.jpgRPTM Improvement AmountSurvey respondents' impressions of the effectiveness of the RPTM. Psyched!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/adherence-to-rptm.jpgAdherence to RPTMPreliminary Results of Question 17.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/survey-responses-over-time.jpgSurvey Responses over timeResponses to the Rock Prodigy Survey Since Feb. 11th.2015-03-05T00:10:44+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/02/25/video-mike-on-mission-impossible/2015-02-25T15:35:28+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/02/18/mission-accomplished/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/img_0868.jpgIMG_0868Psyched!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/img_0865.jpgIMG_0865The glorious result of squeezing like hell on that left-hand crimp at the crux.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/valentines-chocolate.jpgvalentines-chocolateFebruary weather in Colorado.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/dsc09061.jpgDSC09061https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/dsc09059.jpgDSC09059https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/dsc09055.jpgDSC09055https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/dsc09052.jpgDSC09052https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/dsc09047.jpgDSC09047Climbing into the upper "Impossible" crux. Photo Jay Samuelson2015-03-25T14:12:54+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/02/11/introducing-the-great-rock-prodigy-training-methods-survey/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/mad-scientist.jpgmad-scientistMike and Mark developing the original Rock Prodigy method.2015-03-05T21:13:37+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2015/02/05/double-stout-video/2015-05-14T04:12:47+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/12/16/germany-part-v-east-of-weiden/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2001a.jpg???????????????????????????????https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2057a.jpg???????????????????????????????More towers. The formation in far right, in the distance, is The Locamotive.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2066a-e1418661600131.jpg???????????????????????????????A statue of a Monk. The formation is also known as The Monk, and the tower-ette I climbed is at the base of the formation, opposite the camera.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2043a.jpg???????????????????????????????The second ring is still a body-length away.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2039a.jpg???????????????????????????????Passing the first ring.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2046-e1418661296416.jpg???????????????????????????????The small pseudo-tower I chose to climb. The line began up the white, left-facing flake, then veered right onto the black-streaked face.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2028a.jpg???????????????????????????????More sandstone towers at the Bastei.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2063a.jpg???????????????????????????????The Basteibrucke (bridge) after the crowds arrived. This infamous structure was constructed in 1851.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2024a.jpg???????????????????????????????The Semperoper Opera House.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/img_2016a.jpg???????????????????????????????Walking across the Augustusbrucke back into the Altstadt. The central building is the Residenzschloss (palace) and a cathedral is to the right.2015-01-06T21:05:24+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/04/23/adjustable-mount-for-the-rptc/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/wes-green-french-cleat2.jpgWes Green French Cleat2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/wes-green-french-cleat1.jpgWes Green French Cleat1https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/mvi_9089_0001.jpgMVI_9089_0001Making the angled Rip Cut.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/guide-fence-assembly-montage.jpgGuide Fence Assembly montageBuilding a guide (aka “fence”) out of a 2x4 and 1x4 to keep the circular saw aligned correctly during the rip cut. The 2x4 is fastened into the 2x8, and the 1x4 is fastened to the 2x4. Once the cut is complete, the 2x4 and 1x4 are removed.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/graphics-pics-for-adjustable-hb-mount_page_4.jpgGraphics Pics for Adjustable HB Mount_Page_4Use the screw lengths specified here when attaching the RPTC halves to the floating mounts. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_9068.jpg???????????????????????????????The two plywood rectangles attached to the floating cleats. Use two 2” screws for each plywood piece. More screws will be added later.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/graphics-pics-for-adjustable-hb-mount_page_3.jpgGraphics Pics for Adjustable HB Mount_Page_3Make two rectangles of ¾” plywood, measuring 12.5” wide by 10” tall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_9063.jpg???????????????????????????????A finished floating cleat perched above the fixed cleat.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_9059.jpg???????????????????????????????The cut fixed cleat (before sanding).https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_9054.jpg???????????????????????????????My circular saw, setup to cut at a 45-degree angle. The blade in this picture is the Diablo speed blade. 2021-08-07T20:21:02+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/12/11/holiday-gift-guide-for-the-performance-oriented-climber/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/2-pic-of-skin-care-kit-fmarmsater-3244.jpgSkin care kitSanding block, cuticle cutters, athletic tape and nail clippers are all must have items. Photo Frederik Marmsater.2014-12-21T06:33:46+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/10/22/germanypart-i-hitting-the-wall/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/chasin-topo.jpgChasin topoChasin' the Trane climbs through the dihedral, under the big roof and then back left onto the headwall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0568a-e1413829382608.jpg???????????????????????????????About to make the crux lunge on Krampfhammer.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0562b-e1413829261483.jpgIMG_0562bDoulbe-mono warmup on Krampfhammer.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0712.jpg???????????????????????????????Waiting for the rain to stop at Krottenseer Turm.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0710-e1413828985375.jpg???????????????????????????????Kate climbing 40-meters of gently overhanging 5.10 pockets at Roter Felshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/mvi_0622_0004.jpgMVI_0622_0004Latching the incut two finger. Now I just need to throw my foot up to my armpit, lock-off the pocket to my kneecap, and dyno precisely into a half-pad mail slot!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/mvi_0621_0032.jpgMVI_0621_0032Reaching for the jug at the lip of the roof.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/mvi_0621_0005.jpgMVI_0621_0005Rose move! The technical lower bit of Wallstreet.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_2187-e1413828590990.jpg???????????????????????????????Climbing Hitchhike the Plane, 5.13b, Wolfgang Gullich’s clever answer to Bachar’s line.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_2103-e1413828475587.jpg???????????????????????????????The right, steep side of Weissenstein, with unknown climbers on Damphammer (“Steam Hammer”, lower) and the aptly named pump-fest Panische Zeiten (“Panic Time!”, upper)2014-12-02T21:28:46+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/11/05/germany-part-ii-getting-blasted/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/rabenfels-wolfgang-leeb-scren-grab.jpgRabenfels Wolfgang Leeb Scren grabScreen grab of Wolfgang Leeb on the summit of Rabenfels, from the film "Rock".https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/mvi_1205_0014.jpgMVI_1205_0014In the jugs, on the way to the summit.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/mvi_1200_0064.jpgMVI_1200_0064Latching the high mono.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/mvi_1200_0057.jpgMVI_1200_0057Setup for the crux move: a big deadpoint between monos.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/mvi_1200_0041.jpgMVI_1200_0041Beginning the crux with a static reach to a left hand mono.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/mvi_1200_0022.jpgMVI_1200_0022The intense opening moves of Ghettoblaster.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0860-e1414691587115.jpg???????????????????????????????Warming up on the classic Katalysator. Auerbacher Weg is immediately to the right. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0870.jpg???????????????????????????????The perfect hang for Logan and Amelie. Amelie (in the red on the lower right) is practicing her favorite pastime: climbing up and down stairs. Logan is mesmerized by the Kindle.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0884.jpg???????????????????????????????Rabenfelshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0868-e1414691516115.jpg???????????????????????????????Belayer’s view of Ghettoblaster, which follows the pink fixed draws up the right margin of the gray streak.2014-12-02T21:28:06+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/11/19/germany-part-iii-chasing-waterfalls/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1189-e1414700143228.jpg???????????????????????????????Schloss Hohenschwangauhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1151-e1414700066274.jpg???????????????????????????????Schloss Neuschwansteinhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1115-e1414699991813.jpg???????????????????????????????Partnachklamm Gorge. Kate and Logan are on the lower left.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1058.jpgIMG_1058The view down the north face. Garmisch is at the top, center. The lower cable car station is visible on the far left (follow the line formed by the two red and white cable towers), and a red gondola is visible at lower center.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1028.jpg???????????????????????????????The view to the southeast from the summit of the Zugspitze. Amazingly the Marmolada (in the Dolomites) was visible from here, just out of the frame to the right.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1065.jpgIMG_1065On the summit plaza, with a climber nearing the actual summit of the Zugspitze.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1017-e1414699552667.jpg???????????????????????????????Logan on the cog train, with the snow-plastered Zugspitze looming out the window. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0944.jpg???????????????????????????????The Bavarian Alpshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0985.jpg???????????????????????????????The view south, towards the Kitzbuheler Alpen ski region, from the Schleierwasserfall. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/kommunist-topo.jpgKommunist topoThe green line notionally depicts Kommunist, a 5.14a that Alex Huber free-soloed in 2004. It’s a linkup that begins on a .13c called La Pulce d’Aqua, and ends on a .14d called Mongo. The steep lower panel appears as though it was cleaved by glacier action—it’s extremely slick, and all the pockets are downward sloping. I imagine the climbing demands lots of shouldery underclinging on extremely insecure footholds. At least the landing is pretty good!2014-12-02T21:27:07+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/12/02/germany-part-iv-blitzing-the-classics/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_1761.jpgIMG_1761We finished off the day with seven pitches of marvelous 5.10 jughauling at Marientaler Wande.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/mvi_1741_0012a.jpgMVI_1741_0012a(Finally) sticking the huge huck move on Herkules.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/mvi_1741_0062a-e1416250553617.jpgMVI_1741_0062aThe brilliant Herkules at Barenschlucht.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_1580a.jpg???????????????????????????????The glorious upper panel of Team Motivation. Logan Anderson Photo.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_1572a.jpg???????????????????????????????Dealing with some thin, slippery footholds on the crux of Team Motivation. Photo Logan Anderson. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_1616.jpgIMG_1616The right half of Luisenwand. Kaum Zeit zum Atmen climbs the short line above the rope on shallow, sharp pockets and edges.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_1534a-e1416250448355.jpg???????????????????????????????Way up the world's first sport climb? Adolf Rott Memorial Route.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_1620.jpgIMG_1620Streitberger Schild, with a couple of climbers heading up some old-school steep slab routes.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_1470.jpgIMG_1470Prost! (that’s German for “Cheers!”) My brother-in-law Eric and my sister Christina with her children.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_1477.jpgIMG_1477Bavarian waiter carrying a ridiculous amount of beer. Each glass contains a liter, and the empty glass itself is pretty heavy.2014-12-06T22:47:36+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/11/26/thank-you/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/rocky-and-adrian-rocky-and-adrian-balboa-20522807-400-272.jpgRocky-and-Adrian-rocky-and-adrian-balboa-20522807-400-272Rocky explains the true meaning of Thanksgiving to Adrian.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_0110.jpgIMG_0110Mark and Kate at our Thanksgiving celebration.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_0126.jpgIMG_0126Mike and Janelle at Thanksgiving on Saturday.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_0125.jpgIMG_0125The kiddos.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/img_0123.jpgIMG_0123The kiddos.2014-11-27T14:34:03+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/11/12/adjustable-mount-2-0-for-the-rock-prodigy-training-center/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/14-cross-beam-mounted-rear.jpg14 Cross Beam Mounted RearRear view of the finished adjustable mount.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/13-cross-beam-mounted-front.jpg13 Cross Beam Mounted FrontThe finished product.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/11-shims-mounted.jpg11 Shims MountedShims added to the back of my 2x10 cross beam. And a poop tube (for some reason?)https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/12-mounting-cross-beam.jpg12 Mounting Cross BeamLowering my cross beam to account for the increase in height provided by the door stops.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/10-boards-mounted.jpg10 Boards MountedThe RPTC mounted on the base plates.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/9-cutting-shim.jpg9 Cutting ShimCutting the shims.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/8-mounting-hb.jpg8 Mounting HBNote the ~1" overlap at the top of the RPTC.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/7-screws-for-mounting-hb.jpg7 Screws for Mounting HBSelecting the right length screws from my collection to mount the RPTC with.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/6-finished-backplate-front.jpg6 Finished Backplate FrontThe front side of the backplate. Note the T-nuts are flush with the plywood to allow you to mount the RPTC flush.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/5-finished-backplate.jpg5 Finished BackplateThe finished backplate.2017-10-18T01:37:34+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/weight-management/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/disney-blizzard-beach-8.jpgDisney Blizzard Beach (8)I'm not always skinny as a bean-pole, and for strength training, it's helpful to be a little heavier (though maybe not this heavy). This was in 2009 after a 4 month climbing hiatus following an injury. Fueled by a desire to climb, I dropped 30 pounds over 6 months.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_2268.jpgIMG_2268For hard climbing, it doesn't hurt to be skinny. Mike ecstatic after sending "Before there were Nine" at Independence Pass, CO.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_5183_edited_sharp_low.jpgIMG_5183_edited_sharp_lowFoods like these have a low glycemic index, and will make it easier to run a caloric deficit and lose weight.2017-09-26T11:01:16+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/rock-climbing-performance/bouldering/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/gog_06-08-23_15.jpgGoG_06-08-23_15Janelle Snake Pit GoG, COhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/b_20090202_0067.jpgB_20090202_0067Dan Brayack Photohttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/5g3z2508_low.jpg5G3Z2508_lowCold weather is best for bouldering, so make sure you dress appropriately, like Mike on Tennessee Thong, V7, Little Rock City, TN.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/burr121411-106.jpgAlex Honnold, Luminance v10, Buttermilks, Bishop, CAAndy Burr Photo2014-10-27T17:51:29+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/power/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/dave-graham-jaws-ii_enhanced_low.jpgDave Graham Jaws II_enhanced_lowMaking dynamic moves between small holds - typically the hardest moves we encounter - requires substantial muscular power. Dave Graham on Jaws II.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/wolfgang-gullich-on-original-campus-board.jpgWolfgang Gullich on original Campus BoardGullich going big on the original Campus Board. Note how low his left hand is!2021-10-12T03:18:22+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/04/29/how-to-build-a-campus-board/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/hinges.jpgHingesThe hinges that join the base boards to the main support beams.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/campus-construction-table1.jpgCampus Construction TableCampus Board Specshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_0393_edited_sharp.jpgIMG_0393_edited_sharpGood enough for Government work! Though not ideal, the portable Campus board prepared me enough for the very powerful Scarface, 5.14a at Smith Rock, OR.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_8188.jpgIMG_8188This is the entire kit, disassembled.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/framing-hardware.jpgFraming HardwareFraming hardware for a Campus Board.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/campus-schematic_58in-height1.jpgCampus schematic_58in heightSchematic for a 58" tall board in an 8' room.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/csprings-campus-board.jpgCSprings Campus BoardThe first Campus Board I built myself, in Colorado Springs.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/campus-construction-table.jpgCampus Construction TableCampus Board Specshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_8177.jpgIMG_8177The upper, 28" campusing surface (from the back).https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_8178.jpgIMG_8178The plywood and rungs themselves are permanently fastened to vertical 2x4 studs, which are then permanently fastened to the horizontal beams (a 2x4 on the top, and a 2x6 on the bottom). 2017-01-13T03:24:49+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/rock-climbing-performance/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/wv-nov-2010-188-edited.jpgWV Nov 2010 188 - editedJanelle Anderson sending Swahili Slang, 12c, RRG, KY.2014-10-27T17:39:58+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/skill-development/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/fmarmsater_130410_2418_low.jpgfmarmsater_130410_2418_lowYou can work on developing your climbing skill in any venue, the crux is simply setting skill development as the goal and paying attention to your movement.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/20130425img_0336_edited_sharp_low.jpg20130425img_0336_edited_sharp_lowRegardless of the chosen style, climbing is a skill-dependent sport. Routes like Darkness at Noon at Smith rock require precise footwork and grip control.2014-10-27T17:39:44+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/rock-climbing-performance/redpoint/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_4938_edited_sharp_low.jpgIMG_4938_edited_sharp_lowhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_1955_enhanced_sharp_low.jpgIMG_1955_enhanced_Sharp_LowJonathan Siegrist sending Moonshine, Wild Iris, WY.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_4218nd_low.jpgIMG_4218ND_lowSucceeding on our "dream routes" requires extensive physical training, but the redpointing process is also critical. Poor execution can foil the best preparation, so this page will help you avoid this.2014-10-27T17:38:03+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/rock-climbing-performance/trad-and-big-wall-free-climbing/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/121304-31.jpg121304.31Long trad climbs and big walls present an entirely new challenge and accompanying rewards. Mike & Janelle Anderson on the Lowe Route, Angels Landing, UT.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/121204-47.jpg121204.47High on Angel's Landing, Zion, UT.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/85_24-copy.jpg85_24 copyThe legendary Lotus Flower Tower in Canada's Northwest Territories. A very rare sunny day.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/319_051-copy.jpg319_05~1 copyThis cliff should be on every climber's tick list :)2016-01-09T20:45:07+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/10/21/dont-call-it-a-comeback/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_9865.jpgIMG_9865Moments after sending Prime Time to Shine, 5.14b. Elated and a little relieved.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_9857.jpgIMG_9857Psyching up to send, at the base of Prime Time.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_98671.jpgIMG_9867https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_9867.jpgIMG_9867The Primo Wall, looking up at Prime Time...2014-10-28T09:06:18+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/10/15/use-video-to-dial-in-your-beta/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/primeval.jpgPrimevalPrimeval, 5.14a, Clear Creek Canyon, CO.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/primeval_dyno_sidebyside.jpgPrimeval_Dyno_sidebysideSide-by-side video screen captures of the apex of the dyno. The left image is from my failed redpoint attempt with the incorrect (higher) foothold. On the right, the lower foothold is used, and I have a longer reach because my hips are able to be closer to the wall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/primeval_setup_sidebyside.jpgPrimeval_Setup_sidebysideSetting up for the dyno. The left is from my failed redpoint attempt, the right image if the move correctly executed. Notice the different foot position, and how it affects the rest of my body.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/primeval-2a_missed-dyno.jpgPrimeval 2a_Missed DynoMoments later, going for the dyno, I came up a little short, and couldn't control the swing.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/primeval-1a_bad-setup.jpgPrimeval 1a_Bad SetupVideo capture from a redpoint attempt. Here I'm setting up for a dyno that is a redpoint crux of the route. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/canon-s100.jpgCanon s100One of my most-important pieces of climbing equipment - My Canon S100 digital point and shoot.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/manfrotto-tripod.jpgManfrotto TripodI use this light-weight Manfrotto tripod for recording my climbing. It is designed for both photo and video, so it has a nice head that allows for horizontal or vertical shooting, and is easy to pan and tilt -- more so than a tripod designed just for photography.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/primeval-4_stuck-dyno.jpgPrimeval 4_Stuck DynoHere is the result of the lower foothold: My hips are much closer to the wall, and I actually have a longer reach as a result. I stuck the dyno, and used this beta to redpoint the route.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/primeval-3_good-setup.jpgPrimeval 3_Good SetupIn this sequence, I'm using a slightly lower foothold -- only a few inches lower. I'm less scrunched up as I set up for the dyno.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/primeval-2_missed-dyno.jpgPrimeval 2_Missed DynoHere is the result of the higher foothold: My butt/hips are forced out from the wall, making it harder to reach the target hold, and harder to control the swing after catching it. 2014-10-16T13:41:01+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/10/08/back-in-the-usa/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_2260a-lo.jpgIMG_2260a loAll loaded up for the long flight home!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1699a-lo-e1412774851690.jpg???????????????????????????????Limestone spires above the houses of Tuchersfeldhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_2003a-lo.jpgIMG_2003a loDresdenhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1788-lo.jpg???????????????????????????????Kate and Logan on the Pottenstein "Rodelbahn"https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1144a-lo-e1412774678499.jpg???????????????????????????????A wet hike to a fantastic castle.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1924b-lo-e1412774614335.jpgIMG_1924b loA cool summit in the Sachsiche Schweiz (aka Elbsandstein)https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_1473a-lo-e1412774540195.jpg???????????????????????????????Oktoberfest!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0586a_lo.jpgIMG_0586a_loOnsighting Krampfhammer (~13a?) at Weissenstein. Photo Logan Anderson :)https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/img_0520a-lo.jpg???????????????????????????????THE Campus Centre! You can barely see the backside of the original Campus Board through the open upstairs window. Much more to come on this!2014-10-09T03:21:00+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/10/01/flashback-series-ep-3-the-first-free-ascent-of-the-lowe-route-in-zion-ut/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/121404-28.jpg121404.28https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/121304-68.jpg121304.68https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/121404-20.jpg121404.20https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/061805-02.jpg061805.02The dramatic North Face of Angel's Landinghttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/lowertopo.jpgLoweRTopohttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/lowe_routeline.jpgLowe_routelinehttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/121404-7topo.jpg121404.7topohttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/121304-82.jpg121304.82https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/121304-79.jpg121304.79https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/121304-55.jpg121304.552014-10-02T03:13:15+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/09/26/reminder-mike-hosting-reel-rock-tour-in-parker-co-tonight/2014-09-26T22:16:54+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/09/24/the-bubble/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/et2.pngET2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/et1.jpgET1https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_9635.jpgIMG_9635https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_9632.jpgIMG_9632https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_9631.jpgIMG_9631https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_9616.jpgIMG_9616https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_9615.jpgIMG_9615https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_9614.jpgIMG_9614https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_9613.jpgIMG_9613https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/img_9612.jpgIMG_96122015-08-15T11:54:07+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/09/18/mike-anderson-to-host-the-reel-rock-tour-in-denver-co/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/reelrock2014wmikeanderson.jpgReelRock2014wMikeAndersonReel Rock 20142014-09-18T23:42:07+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/09/16/auf-wiedersehen/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/loarre-castle-60_lo.jpgLoarre Castle (60)_loA proper castle in Spain.2014-09-18T13:01:16+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/09/11/its-all-semantics/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/244_01-copy.jpg244_01 copyCastle Valley, Utah2014-09-12T06:31:53+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/tools-for-rock-climbing-training/rock-prodigy-training-center/2019-09-22T01:41:17+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/rock-climbing-training-motivation/2014-09-11T13:50:43+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/rock-climbing-performance/on-sight/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_5018_edited_sharp_low.jpgIMG_5018_edited_sharp_lowAn onsight is the ultimate style of ascent, and your training can be tailored to boost your onsighting ability.2014-09-11T13:47:08+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/power-endurance/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_4339_edited_sharp_low.jpgIMG_4339_edited_Sharp_lowhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/13041716_edited_sharp_low.jpg13041716_edited_sharp_lowA treadwall is a great tool for endurance training, but any tool is only as effective as how it is used.2014-09-11T13:44:55+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/base-fitness/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/12-pic-of-arc-traversing-in-a-gym-low.jpg12. Pic of ARC Traversing in a gym LOWModerate traversing in the gym is a great way to perform Base Fitness Training. Fredrik Marmsaterhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_1227_enhanced_sharp_low.jpgIMG_1227_enhanced_sharp_lowLong endurance climbs , like those at Maple Canyon, require a high level of Base Fitness. Steve Bechtel on Toxic Turkey, 5.13c.2020-02-26T01:16:48+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/rock-climbing-training-plan/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/performance-peak-chart2_low.jpgPerformance Peak Chart2_lowPeriodization creates a synergistic fitness effect that raises your overall climbing performance to an all-time high. Careful planning is essential to achieve the best results.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/12-example-macro-cycles.png12. Example Macro-CyclesThe Rock Prodigy Training Program utilizes a linearhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_2599_edited-sharp_low.jpgIMG_2599_edited Sharp_lowMark Anderson cruising Kaleidoscope, RRG, KY.2016-05-25T15:40:46+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_0958_edited_sharp_low.jpgIMG_0958_edited_sharp_lowAndrew Hunzicker on Vicious Fish, Smith Rock, OR.2014-09-11T13:39:34+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/why-train-for-rock-climbing/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/nrg-nov-10-108.jpgApollo Reed, 5.13a, New River GorgeTake it from someone who spent a long time climbing 5.10, routes just get better as they get harder!2014-09-11T13:38:34+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/08/28/optimizing-post-exercise-recovery/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/seijisittingbull_lo3.jpg?Coach Seiji crushing at Sitting Bull Falls, NM.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/coach-seiji-3-600x400.jpgCoach-Seiji-3-600x400.jpg2014-09-30T03:29:05+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing-questions-answers/ask-a-question/2022-12-27T20:21:40+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing-questions-answers/faqs/2014-08-19T21:44:40+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing-questions-answers/2015-09-04T22:05:36+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/08/19/frankenjura-dreaming/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_0504a.jpg???????????????????????????????More than 20 years after his death, Gullich continues to inspire countless climbers, myself included.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/2tex-pockets_lo.jpg???????????????????????????????2Tex Pocketshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/pure-pockets_lo.jpg???????????????????????????????Pure Pocketshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/pure-power-pockets-i-closeup_lo-e1408304564587.jpg???????????????????????????????Some of the "Pure Power Pockets I" are quite deep and incut, like this one.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/pure-power-pockets-i_lo.jpg???????????????????????????????Pure Power Pockets I2014-08-19T16:10:31+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/08/08/rest-phase-phun/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_0461a.jpg???????????????????????????????The nice stroll back to the highway.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_0443a-e1407463118827.jpg???????????????????????????????The second swim was a bit narrow.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_0431a-e1407463043958.jpg???????????????????????????????The slot ended with a pair of beautiful swims in a dark chamber.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_0369a-e1407462929996.jpg???????????????????????????????Chris "Handlining" (aka Batman-ing) down a 15' drop.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_0342a-e1407462806569.jpgIMG_0342aTight slots like this involve a lot of down chimneying which starts out fun but often becomes tedious.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_0319a-e1407462688124.jpgIMG_0319aCJ deep in the slot.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_0301a.jpgIMG_0301aLeprechaun Canyon from the top, the Henry Mountains behind.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_3387_edited2_sharp_low.jpgIMG_3387_edited2_sharp_lowA rare sunrise rainbow!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_3375_edited_sharp_low.jpgIMG_3375_edited_sharp_lowSunrisehttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/img_3330_edited_sharp_low.jpgIMG_3330_edited_sharp_lowLarry Canyon2014-08-08T13:17:00+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/07/29/reflections-on-the-time-value-of-climbing-ability/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/view_from_nbnp_belay_reva.jpg???????????????????????????????Smith Rock.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/0300.jpg0300My first 5.13, Goliath, took six climbing days and the better part of the season.2014-07-30T22:35:13+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/07/16/the-international-climbers-festival/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_9125.jpgIMG_9125Notice how Axel watches his foot as he places it on the hold...something many of us could improve on.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_9128.jpgIMG_9128Lucas roping up to show off his skills to Timmy.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_9113.jpgIMG_9113The "Trango Tango" clinic at Wild Iris.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_0207.jpgIMG_0207Discussing the merits of training, especially for those with limited climbing time.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_0205.jpgIMG_0205https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_0203.jpgIMG_0203Here Mike is explaining how certain grips (especially small, shallow pockets) MUST be held with a crimp grip, which is why it is essential to train for it.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_9114.jpgIMG_9114Logan getting some "expert feedback" from his Dad, Mark.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_9098.jpgIMG_9098https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_9097.jpgIMG_9097The crowd lined up to hear about the Rock Prodigy Training Center! j/khttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_9096.jpgIMG_9096The dyno wall, ready for the rain that poured all day.2014-09-03T19:56:28+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/07/10/flashback-series-ep-2-the-totem-pole/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/carrot-bolt.jpgCarrot BoltThe Carrot Bolt: at left is the fixed machine bolt. The Carrot hanger is in the center, and the entire assembly is shown on the right.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/jugging_up_after_mark.jpgJugging_up_after_MarkKate arriving at the summit ledge.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/kate_on_top.jpgKate_on_topLooking back at the Tote from the Tyrolean Traverse.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/still_working_on_it___.jpgStill_working_on_it___Kate on the summit ledge.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/starting_the_second_pitch__2.jpgStarting_the_second_pitch__2Beginning the second pitch.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/past_the_crux.jpgPast_the_cruxPast the first pitch crux!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/climbing_around_the_arete_2a.jpgClimbing_around_the_arete_2aBeginning the crux traverse.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/mark_leading_the_first_pitch.jpgMark_leading_the_first_pitchBeginning up the first pitch of The Free Route.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/view_from_the_bottom_of_the_.jpgView_from_the_bottom_of_the_The view to the southwest from the base of The Tote.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/committing_to_the_adventure_.jpgCommitting_to_the_adventure_Feigning confidence as I begin the descent into the void.2014-10-09T00:41:50+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/07/03/independence-day/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/mvi_0119-valkyrie-send-2-jul-14_0010a.jpgMVI_0119 Valkyrie Send 2 Jul 14_0010aVideo still of me on the FA of Valkyrie.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/mark-4-flat-web.jpgMark 4 - Flat - WebFiguring out the foot sequence before the FA of Full Metal Jacket, 5.13c. Photo Keith North.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/kevin-1-flat-web.jpgKevin 1 - Flat - WebKevin Capps near the lip turn on Apoca-Lips Now.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/img_9836a.jpg???????????????????????????????Keith North trying my new 13b-ish line Apoca-Lips Now.2014-07-03T14:29:50+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/06/25/trainer-to-the-jstars-part-2/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/jstar_filling_out_logbook.jpgJstar_Filling_out_logbookJonathan filling out his logsheet during a winter training session in Las Vegas.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/quote81.jpgQuote8https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/quote8.jpgQuote8https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/quote7.jpgQuote7https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/quote6.jpgQuote6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/283.jpg283The Ceuse Massif. Likely the best chunk of exposed limestone on the planet.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/quote5.jpgQuote52014-07-30T17:08:47+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/06/19/trainer-to-the-jstars-part-1/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/quote4.jpgQuote4https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/quote3.jpgQuote3https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/quote2.jpgQuote2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/quote11.jpgQuote1https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/jonathans-worn-out-hangboard1a-e1402688694345.jpegJonathans worn out hangboard1a“So dude. I was getting super frustrated because I felt like I was constantly slipping off the hang board and shit was getting so much harder even with perfect temps, so I took the board down and inspected to find that I've literally worn the texture off...”https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/moonshine2a.jpgMoonshine2aJonathan crushing Moonshine, 5.14d, at the Wild Iris last summer. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/658a.jpg658aRealization is located on the Sector Biographie, which is the tallest and steepest section of cliff near the center of the photo.2022-12-10T03:06:54+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/06/11/lander-days/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/mg_8247_lo.jpg_MG_8247_loI was lucky to be the first person in the Western Hemisphere to try the super hot Tenaya Terifa, an aggressive high performance shoe that will excel on steep terrain. It has a chiseled toe that is great for pockets. I also like that it is a lace up because I can get on a tighter fitting shoe and still get it on over my grotesquely oversized heels.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_2378_enhanced_sharp_low.jpgIMG_2378_Enhanced_Sharp_lowBJ Tilden on his super-sick Wolf Point project. This think might be 9a+!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_2357.jpgIMG_2357Steve Bechtel climbing on Remus, 13b.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_2308.jpgIMG_2308Las Vegas climber, and all-around awesome dude, Rob Jensen climbing "Dominant Species" 5.11d. That's Red Canyon in the background.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_2270.jpgIMG_2270Recent Lander transplant Kyle Vassilopolous warming up at Wolf Point.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_2410.jpgIMG_2410Dr. Tom Rangitsch going for the FA of Full Moon, 5.13b.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_2260.jpgIMG_2260America's latest Super-Crag, Wolf Point. This was my spring goal, that I had been dreaming of and training for for months. Finally made it!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_2458.jpgIMG_2458Lucas's favorite time of the day...heading home!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_2413.jpgIMG_2413Typical June weather at Wild Iris, but it's always temporary.2014-06-11T19:33:00+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/06/03/unfinished-business-part-2-insurrection/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/20131023-_mg_2781b1.jpg20131023-_MG_2781bhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/20131023-_mg_2526a.jpg20131023-_MG_2526aFinishing the opening boulder problem.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/20131023-_mg_2416a.jpg20131023-_MG_2416aNearing the good rest.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/20131023-_mg_2781b.jpg20131023-_MG_2781bStretching for the sloping edge at the end of the redpoint crux.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/indy-pass-proj-25-oct-13-2nd-go-c_0009a.jpgIndy Pass Proj 25 Oct 13 2nd Go C_0009a"The Indy Pass Project"https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/indy-pass-proj-30-oct-13-1st-go-c_0032a.jpgIndy Pass Proj 30 Oct 13 1st Go C_0032aJust above the Crimp Rail.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_9376b.jpgIMG_9376bNightmare anyone? Artwork along Highway 82, just outside of Twin Lakeshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_7635lo.jpg???????????????????????????????Frowny Face!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/img_7638a.jpg???????????????????????????????Rigged to tow Logan up to the Grotto Wall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/indy-pass-open-pic_lo.jpgIndy Pass Open Pic_lo2014-06-04T11:38:05+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/05/27/unfinished-business-part-1/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_2127_lo.jpgIMG_2127_loFinishing up the outstanding arête. Photo Mike Anderson.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/beretta-vidstill_0024.jpgBeretta VidStill_0024Nearing the top of the arête.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/beretta-vidstill_0010.jpgBeretta VidStill_0010Just above the crux.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/beretta-vidstill_0005.jpgBeretta VidStill_0005The crux throw. My left hand is on the pivotal hold.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/mark_on_monkeyface_4.jpgMark_on_Monkeyface_4Smith Rock: Arete Paradise.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_2090_lo.jpgIMG_2090_loThe burly and perplexing start.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8979_lo-e1401060768963.jpg???????????????????????????????This view of the arête from the right gives an idea of its steepness.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_9326a-e1401060648816.jpg???????????????????????????????Luke’s project at The Armory. The start of Ken T’ank is visible to the left of the wide white streak.2014-06-01T14:42:52+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/about-us/mark-anderson/2022-06-17T00:29:51+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/about-us/contact/2014-11-10T19:28:39+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/about-us/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_2095.jpgIMG_20952014-05-23T02:26:38+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/forum/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/rctm-forum-screenshot.jpgRCTM Forum ScreenshotRCTM.com Forum2014-05-23T02:26:10+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/contribute-rock-climbing-training-content/2014-05-23T02:25:49+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/training-for-rock-climbing-articles/2014-05-23T02:25:27+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/rock-climbing-training-motivation/videos/2014-05-23T02:20:42+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/05/21/home-sweet-home/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8429.jpgIMG_8429https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8393.jpgIMG_8393I think the Fun Rock will fit :)https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8366.jpgIMG_8366The biggest vehicle I've ever piloted. It drove like crap, but it got the job done.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8363.jpgIMG_8363Playing "Tetris" with all our worldly possessions. The Campus board is strapped to the wall to my left. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8356.jpgIMG_8356Just getting started...plenty of room so far!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8329.jpgIMG_8329Enjoying seafood gumbo from "Dewey Destin's Seafood Restaurant" with my Mom, Karen.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8324.jpgIMG_8324These are the "guts" of the Fun Rock...it comes apart pretty quickly from here, but these puppys are HEAVY!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8323.jpgIMG_8323Lowering the last few panels. Each panel weighs about 15 lbs, and there are 41 of them...that's about 600 lbs total.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8317.jpgIMG_8317The manual instructs you to tip the wall to a horizontal position to remove the panels, but the size of our room didn't allow this. At this point, gravity and balance are the only things holding the panels on, so you have to be careful to avoid an industrial accident. We used some ropes, a gri gri and an ascender to lower the panels carefully.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_8315.jpgIMG_8315We stripped the holds, then removed the aluminum panels.2015-12-30T17:29:42+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/05/14/focus/2014-05-14T14:50:47+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/01/15/tips-for-effective-campusing-part-2-going-big/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/btl-push-with-low-hand1.jpgBTL Push with low handUsing the low hand to push on real rock.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/campus-1-5-side-view-montage.jpgCampus 1-5 Side View MontageThis shows the action of my low hand while attempting 1-5-8 (Moon Spacing). The left frame shows the moment of latching Rung 5. The center frame is a point midway through the second move. The right frame shows the right hand's last moment of contact with Rung 1. Note that my right arm is almost straight, and my hand is level with my thigh in the right frame.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/1-5-campus-frame_0005.jpg1-5 Campus Frame_0005Any excuse to post a pic with my shirt off :) Here's me spanning from Rung 1 to Rung 5. Note the difference in height between my two shoulders (about 3 half-increments, or 33cm/13 inches). I've found this requires a lot of strength in the low shoulder.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/campus-and-schoolroom-boards-side-by-side.jpgCampus and Schoolroom Boards side by sideOriginal Campus Board on the left, Schoolroom board on the right.2015-12-01T21:42:48+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/05/08/slideshow-in-golden-co-may-14th-600pm/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/mark_anderson_facebook_poster.jpgMark_Anderson_Facebook_Poster2014-05-08T16:39:21+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/07/10/training-intensity/2018-09-22T02:52:25+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/05/05/flashback-series-episode-1-tnt/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/img_0059.jpgIMG_0059A typical TNT First Ascent attempt c. 2000: Unappealing, already climbed, and ultimately aborted.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/avalanche-diagram.jpgAvalanche Diagramhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/008.jpg008Timmy approximating the beginning and end of his near-fatal journey.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/007.jpg007A look at the slide from the boys' retreat.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/003.jpg003...and Timmy's view looking back up the slope after arresting his slide.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/004.jpg004The slide from Tommy's perspective...https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/002.jpg002Tommy side-hilling towards the mountain.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/001.jpg001The northern aspect of Mt. Timpanogos2014-05-05T14:27:47+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/04/15/announcements/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/mc_training_with_rock_prodigy_method-flyer_cropped-lo-res.jpgMC_Training_with_Rock_Prodigy_Method Flyer_Cropped lo reshttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/lunar-eclipse.jpg???????????????????????????????Last night's Lunar Eclipse from my house. I'm sure it got even better than this, but I couldn't stay up that late :)2014-04-27T23:06:07+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/03/06/hows-your-hang/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/abq-hangboard.jpgABQ hangboardThis photo shows a pretty sweet setup Mark had in Albuquerque. He had the luxury of an empty closet doorway to use, so he had plenty of width to work with, and it didn’t interfere with closet storage because he wasn’t using it anyway. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/hangboard-setup1.jpgHangboard setupUseful measurements for mounting a hangboard.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/45-deg-joist-hanger.jpg45 deg joist hanger45-Degree Joist Hangerhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/camera1-003.jpgCamera1 003Janelle's training rig in an Air Force tent in the Indian Ocean.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/img_1330.jpgIMG_1330Corner hangboard mount.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/afg-hb-11.jpgAFG HB 11A platform for adjusting height and a kick plate.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/afg-hb-3.jpgAFG HB 3This training rig inside my shipping container dorm room in Afghanistan put me in pretty good shape.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/scan_pic0002.jpgScan_Pic0002My USAFA dorm room. I mounted a hangboard over the closet by hooking a bracket over those cupboards shown at the top left of the photo.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/img_1313.jpgIMG_1313Disclaimer: Please wear shoes when hangboarding with weights to prevent devastating accidents 2015-05-08T16:13:22+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/04/09/bonus-climbing/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/mg_6387a_lo.jpg_MG_6387a_loReach for vertical railhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/mg_6383b_lo.jpg_MG_6383b_loCrimp Cruxhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/mg_6329-2a-lo.jpg_MG_6329-2a-LoRoof Liphttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/mg_6391-2a_lo-e1396139818689.jpg_MG_6391-2a_loBread Loaf move.2014-04-09T15:58:30+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/04/04/the-rock-climbers-training-manual-is-now-available/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_9019-lo.jpg???????????????????????????????Signing books and stuffing envelopes.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_9017-lo.jpg???????????????????????????????Loading just shy of 1,000 pounds of books into my creaking Honda Civic.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_9015-lo1.jpg???????????????????????????????Learning how to use a Pallet Jack--nothing could possibly go wrong with this.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/img_9014-lo.jpg???????????????????????????????One of seven pallets of The Rock Climber's Training Manual. Your copy is in there somewhere!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/rctm_acknowledgements.jpgRCTM_Acknowledgements2014-04-15T04:41:41+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/tools-for-rock-climbing-training/the-rock-climbers-training-manual/purchase-complete/2014-04-02T01:19:55+00:00weekly0.6https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/02/26/the-most-important-phase/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/img_0003a-lo-res.jpgIMG_0003a lo resAttempting Aggro Monkey, 5.13b, Smith Rock.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/cowgirl-pic.jpgCowgirl PicFinger strength will eventually become limiting for the vast majority of performance-oriented climbers. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/nrg-nov-10-049.jpgNRG Nov 10 049If you're training for a (relatively) crux-less pumpfest, like some routes found at the Red, the Power Endurance Phase might make more sense as a Transition Phase. Sean Corpron rises again to crush Resurection, 5.12c.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/hb-phase-peaks-comparison.jpgHB Phase Peaks ComparisonBased on this data, it would be reasonable to predict that my Winter 2011-12 Season would be far superior to my Fall 2011 Season. The reality? In the Fall of 2011 I sent my hardest route to date; in the Winter of 2011-12 I sent one 5.12a, one 13a, injured an A2 pulley, and then spent literally the next 6 months rehab’ing my injury.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/mark_on_monkeyface_2_.jpgMark_on_Monkeyface_2_Working my way back into shape in the spring of 2004 on Spank The Monkey, 5.12a, Smith Rock. 2015-07-28T15:34:13+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/03/27/designing-a-transition-phase/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/transition-phase-schedule-18-mar-14.jpgTransition Phase Schedule 18 Mar 14Notional Transition Phase training schedule.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/wild-iris-sep-09-231_lo.jpgWild Iris Sep 09 231_lo"Roped bouldering" on a potential project is great way to begin the transition to outdoor climbing. If possible, use this time to attempt your goal route's most difficult moves and perhaps "send" the individual crux boulder problems. BJ Tilden rehearsing moves prior to his 2009 redpoint of Genetic Drifter, 5.14c.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_4115.jpgIMG_4115Late in the Transition Phase, climbing outside on a pumpy goal route can provide an ideal training platform, but this only works if the route is pumpy-enough to stimulate improvement AND the climber is hanging on long enough between rests to get properly pumped. A route like Kaleidescope is ideal because it lacks a stopper crux and seems to get gradually more difficult as you ascend, making it easy to progress gradually up the route as your PE improves.2015-01-12T22:26:00+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/03/17/mission-impossible/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/roof_pull_2.jpgRoof_pull_2https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/eying_the_horizontal_slash.jpgEying_the_horizontal_slashPerched on the highest razor crimps, eyeing the horizontal slash that marks the end of the ‘Impossible’ crux. Photo Adam Sandershttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/bloody_finger_pad.jpg???????????????????????????????Finger pad carnage! I can smile about this now.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/beginning_upper_upper_crux.jpgBeginning_Upper_Upper_cruxEntering the ‘Impossible’ crux, with my right hand on the incut horn, and left on the lowest ‘razor crimp’.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/mo_crux.jpgMO_cruxBattling shallow slopers and thin crimps on the ‘Mission’ crux – the lower half of Mission Impossible.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/entire_route_from_afar.jpgEntire_route_from_afarMission Impossible from across the canyon, finishing up the headwall.2014-04-04T22:32:12+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/03/11/sneak-peek-at-the-rock-climbers-training-manual/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/rctm-and-kids-montage.jpgRCTM and Kids montageMy babies!https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/img_8809a.jpgIMG_8809aThe Three-Season Log Book.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/img_8817a.jpgIMG_8817aA look at the inside.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/img_8807a.jpgIMG_8807aThe Rock Climber's Training Manual!2014-04-03T16:01:35+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/05/04/hangboarding-faq-2-should-i-use-big-holds-with-lots-of-added-weight-or-small-holds-with-lots-of-weight-removed/2014-02-25T20:10:32+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/02/12/sunny-st-george-part-ii-the-present/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_8231b-gorilla-cliffs.jpgIMG_8231b Gorilla CliffsGorilla Cliffs! The Present climbs the short, steep, dark gray streak a bit right of center.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/5present-stills2_0046a.jpg5Present Stills2_0046aNearing the end of the redpoint crux. The next move is a big slap to a jug.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/present-stills1_0005a.jpgPresent Stills1_0005aThe fourth move: a precise stab, from a poor, right hand two-finger pocket.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/9present3_0038a.jpg9Present3_0038aPulling onto the slab.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_8425a-cathedral-and-l-end-of-wwa.jpgIMG_8425a Cathedral and L end of WWaThe Cathedral and the left end of the Wailing Wall.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/l_20140104_dab_4799_0008.jpgL_20140104_DAB_4799_0008Amelie chillin at the Turtle Wall. Photo Dan Brayack.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/c_20140104_dab_4762_0106.jpgC_20140104_DAB_4762_0106Picking plums at the Farmer's Market, Turtle Wall. Photo Dan Brayack.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_8326a.jpgIMG_8326aThe ultra-featured Swamp Cave.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_8322a-e1390259119205.jpgIMG_8322aJonathan's masterpiece La Lune climbs the right side of the arching cave.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_8335a.jpgIMG_8335aPictographs in Arrow Canyon.2014-02-22T19:38:14+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/12/04/recommended-reading-revelations-by-jerry-moffatt/2014-02-12T04:25:31+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/01/26/deliberate-practice/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/5g3z2562_low.jpg5G3Z2562_lowShaun gets "expert feedback" from Mike on the Jerry Lewis boulder at Little Rock City, TN. (c) Janelle Andersonhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_3505small.jpgIMG_3505small2014-02-05T04:33:06+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/01/22/sunny-st-george-part-i-breakin-the-law/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_0029a-e1390148788498.jpgIMG_0029aLogan stoked at In N' Out. His new favorite food is Chocolate Milk Shakes.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_0026a.jpgIMG_0026aCelebratory Double Meat with Everything (hold the cheese), add whole grilled onion and chili peppers, from In N' Out Burger. Definitely not on the diet plan but well worth it.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_8167a.jpgIMG_8167a"Rest Day" hike to the West Rim of Zion Canyon.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/indedpendence-monument-hike_a.jpgIndedpendence Monument Hike_aHiking to Independence Monument outside Grand Junction, CO.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_8181a.jpgIMG_8181aLogan and me at Black & Tan.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/img_0022a.jpgIMG_0022aSpotting Logan while while hiking near the Chuckawalla Wall on New Year's Day.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/c_20131229_dab_4307_06411.jpgC_20131229_DAB_4307_0641Unwinding from the Iron Cross. Photo Dan Brayack.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/c_20131229_dab_3734_0141.jpgC_20131229_DAB_3734_0141Jumanji is one of the better limestone 5.12a's in the area. It's a fine route, but its sharp, polished, and so not particularly fun by holiday standards. Photo Dan Brayack.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/c_20131229_dab_4372_0703.jpgC_20131229_DAB_4372_0703Beginning the second crux, a heinous crank to gain the headwall. Photo Dan Brayack.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/c_20131229_dab_3936_0333.jpgC_20131229_DAB_3936_0333Struggling to climb out of the Iron Cross on Breakin the Law. Photo Dan Brayack2014-01-24T16:13:05+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/01/08/tips-for-effective-campusing-part-1-the-basics/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/campus-landing2.jpgCampus Landing2Using my entire body to absorb the landing.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/campus-landing.jpgCampus LandingUsing my entire body to absorb the fall impact. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/campus-deadpoint.jpgcAmpus deadpointA pretty good deadpoint, producing just the right amount of heigt to latch the high rung.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/movie_0001.jpgMovie_0001Staring down the target rungs before beginning.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/movie_0023.jpgMovie_0023Latching a rung with elbow bent and tension in my shoulder.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/campus-montage.jpgcampus montageYour hips should trace an upside-down "J" pattern on each campus move.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/c_20131229_dab_3822_0219.jpgC_20131229_DAB_3822_0219Putting my contact strength to the test on Breakin the Law, 5.14b, St George, Utah. Dan Brayack Photo. 2014-02-28T14:54:58+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2014/01/01/comparing-campus-board-configurations/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/campus-board-spacing-diagram-moon-v-metolius.jpgCampus Board Spacing Diagram Moon v MetoliusComparison of Metolius and Moon Spacinghttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_7987a-e1387905427985.jpgComparing the flat & incut edges side-by-side, you can hardly notice the "incut". Just from appearances, the Flat-Side-Up edge looks easier to grab to me.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/campus-rung-dimensions.jpgCampus Rung DimensionsApproximate dimensions of a small Metolius campus rung, based on my measurements. The 'flat' side is on the left, the 'incut' side is on the right. Of note, these rungs are supposedly 3/4" deep, but I found them to be a bit less than that.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_7981a-e1387905240983.jpgLazy H Campus Board Version 4.0. Small rungs, incut side up, on the right, spaced at 11 cm. Medium rungs, flat-side-up on the left, spaced at 22-cm. Three small rungs, flat side up, laid over the medium rungs (at positions 1.5, 4.5 and 7.5). https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_7980a5-e1387904699620.jpgIMG_7980aMy ghetto ceiling cutout and slightly shortened rung. I haven't actually tried campusing to this rung yet. I suspect it will punish poor accuracy.2014-01-24T03:01:46+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/12/18/hangboard-resistance-data-analysis/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/total-workout-volume.jpgTotal Workout VolumeThis chart shows Total Workout Volume = [((BW + S1AL) x S1D) + ((BW + S2AL) x S2D) + ((BW + S3AL) x S3D)]Grip 1 + [((BW + S1AL) x S1D) + ((BW + S2AL) x S2D) + ((BW + S3AL) x S3D)]Grip 2 + ... + [((BW + S1AL) x S1D) + ((BW + S2AL) x S2D) + ((BW + S3AL) x S3D)]Grip n.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/im-2-finger-total-grip-volume.jpgIM 2 Finger Total Grip VolumeThis chart shows the sum of the Volume for each set of the IM 2 Finger grip. The formula for this chart is Total Grip Volume = [(Body Weight + Set 1 Load Applied) x Set 1 Duration] + [(Body Weight + Set 2 Load Applied) x Set 2 Duration] + [(Body Weight + Set 2 Load Applied) x Set 2 Duration].https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/im-2f-3rd-set-volume.jpgIM 2F 3rd Set VolumeThis chart shows Volume, defined as Volume = (Body Weight + Load Applied) x Duration, for the 3rd set of the IM 2 Finger grip for the entire Strength Phase.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/grip-order-table.jpgGrip Order Table2021-11-29T06:19:32+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/12/11/bouldering-for-power/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/atomik-footholds.jpgAtomik footholdsAtomik Bolt-on Feet offer a lot of variety at a low price.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_79341.jpgIMG_7934Screw on "Jibs" are always a great choice too. They're cheap, easy to install and offer som very challenging shapes. Unfortunately they're beginning to vanish from the market as gyms adopt elaborate wall surfaces that won;t accept wood screws. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_7917.jpgIMG_7917Drop Art Footholds: Many options for orientation, and some can be used as wicked hard crimps.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_7919.jpgIMG_7919Three of my favorites: 2Tex Pure Crimp in red, Ian's Tribal in green, and Supertweak in blue. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_79351.jpgIMG_7935Super Tweaks: These make challenging hand and footholds, depending on how they're oriented.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_7936.jpgIMG_7936This pic of one of my "Comfy Crimps" says it all. You know a hold is good when you see 12 pieces of tape next to it! https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/hueco-feb-08-037.jpgHueco Feb 08 037The North American sector of the Real World is mostly covered in small edges and pockets. Train accordingly! Fred Gomez crushing the Hueco classic Baby Face, V7https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_7944.jpgIMG_7944Holds like this are skin-friendly, fun to climb on, and minimize the risk of finger injury. Unfortunately they don't exist in the real world, so they offer little training value.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/bishop-2009-027.jpgBishop 2009 027Gratuitous bouldering pic: Starting up the classic Bishop highball High Plains Drifter, V72014-08-20T03:49:35+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/12/25/what-i-got-for-christmas/https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/img_1317.jpgIMG_1317The cover proof.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/proof-img_8029.jpgThe Fixed Pin brain trust examining each page of the book for errors. Ben on the left, Jason on the right. https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/proof-img_8030.jpgAll 304 pages of the book. These are printed in 16-page "Signatures", which are then bound together to form the book. The RCTM has 19 signatures. As you can see by the color marks at the top and bottom of each page, these haven't been cropped to actual size.https://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/proof-img_8026.jpgThe two large sheets showing the finished look of 16 representative pages.2014-01-24T02:23:19+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/04/09/joshua-tree/2013-12-13T03:38:10+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/09/23/smarter-not-harder/2013-12-12T23:19:36+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/11/19/rptc-install-and-first-impressions/2013-12-12T20:45:01+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/11/11/off-to-the-printer/2014-01-26T04:21:04+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/10/28/where-theres-a-will-theres-a-way-to-weigh-less/2013-12-12T20:43:02+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/10/15/sport-alpine-climbing-and-siege-sport-climbing/2013-12-12T20:41:51+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/10/07/roped-bouldering-in-cowboy-country/2013-12-12T20:40:12+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/10/01/get-em-while-theyre-hot/2013-12-12T20:39:09+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/09/23/thats-a-wrap/2013-12-12T20:38:06+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/09/16/whole-body-strength-training/2019-06-21T01:36:06+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/09/11/rock-prodigy-training-center-first-production-run/2013-12-12T20:34:30+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/08/23/beating-the-heat-tips-on-trainingthrough-summer-temps/2013-12-12T20:34:03+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/08/16/good-things-come-in-threes/2013-12-12T20:32:52+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/04/15/on-a-mission/2013-12-12T20:30:32+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/03/12/campus-board-refurbishment-whats-your-angle/2013-12-12T20:29:35+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/02/18/flight-of-the-phoenix/2013-12-12T20:27:39+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/01/22/raise-the-roof/2013-12-12T20:25:08+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/01/15/campus-training-part-3-basic-routine/2023-06-17T07:53:49+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/10/03/campus-training-part-1-history-theory-campus-board-construction/2015-01-15T17:06:06+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/12/11/campus-training-part-2-frequency-exercise-overview/2013-12-12T20:19:56+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/11/15/passing-the-time/2013-12-12T20:18:23+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/10/10/dreams-of-ten-sleep/2013-12-12T20:17:24+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/09/26/contact-strength-max-recruitment-power-training/2013-12-12T20:12:48+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/09/17/spice-up-your-arc-routine/2017-03-01T05:05:49+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/09/10/qa-3-when-should-i-start-training-for-climbing/2018-09-22T02:55:00+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/08/30/hangboard-faq-0-what-is-a-basic-hangboard-routine/2015-08-28T20:01:00+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/06/20/whats-right-for-you/2013-12-12T19:56:38+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/06/15/qa-2-training-at-the-crag/2013-12-12T19:54:19+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/05/04/hangboarding-faq-1-how-do-i-progress-on-the-hangboard/2021-01-24T13:21:43+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/04/24/goal-setting-for-climbing-part-ii/2013-12-12T19:45:10+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/05/09/goal-setting-for-climbing-follow-up/2013-12-12T19:43:10+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/04/30/the-no-effort-plan-to-improved-performance/2016-06-07T17:48:47+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/03/17/my-credentials/2013-12-12T19:17:58+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2012/03/26/goal-setting-for-climbing-part-i/2013-12-12T18:04:23+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/2013/11/17/shelf-anchor-replacement-wrap-up/2013-11-17T18:54:50+00:00monthlyhttps://rockclimberstrainingmanual.comdaily1.02024-01-15T22:04:14+00:00