In December 2004, I (Mike) made the First Free Ascent (FFA) of the historic North Face of Angels Landing (aka Lowe Route). This amazing feature (the N Face of Angel’s Landing) was the premier climbing feature in one of America’s most beautiful National Parks, and yet it had never been free climbed. The route went…
Just a reminder, I’ll be hosting the Reel Rock Tour in Parker, CO tonight. Here’s a link to the original post with the details…. Reel Rock Tour
Hello, this is Janelle…Mike’s wife. Since someone is off to Germany enjoying his 12 hour long flight, I thought I would seize the moment and post on his beloved blog without permission. HA! You know your husband is a little INSANE when he turns the basement into a movie set straight out of the ET! Keep in…
I’m excited to announce that I will be hosting the Reel Rock Tour on Friday, September 26th at the Wildlife Experience in Denver, Colorado: For those not familiar, the Reel Rock Tour is a travelling showcase of the year’s best climbing films, all in one event (for one low price 🙂 ). This will be an awesome…
This week’s article introduces a new author to our team; Mike’s wife, Janelle Anderson. Janelle has been climbing alongside Mike for 15 years now. She consistently climbs in the 5.12+ range, and occasionally 5.13-, despite often generously sacrificing her goals to give Mike the best chances on his projects. Janelle will be a regular contributor,…
The family and I just got back from a great week in Lander. If you’ve never been, Lander is a throw-back; it’s a small community at the foot of the Wind River mountain range in Wyoming, so the pace of life is a little slower, and life is a bit simpler. When we’re in Lander,…
Some of you may know that for the past six years or so, my (Mike) family and I have lived East of the Mississippi, first in Dayton, OH from 2008-2011, then the NW Florida panhandle from 2011 to the present. Living “out East” was an incredible experience in which we met some awesome people, and…
Previously we described how to install a hangboard, even in tight spaces. In this article, we’ll expand these approaches to Campus boards. Campus training is important to the Rock Prodigy method, but it’s often the first training activity to be skipped because it requires unique equipment. This is unfortunate because; as described in the Rock…
The Rock Climber’s Training Manual is now available! Order your signed copy HERE We get a lot of comments from folks that they would love to use the Rock Prodigy training method, but they can’t because they don’t have access to the right tools; primarily a hangboard and campus board. They may live in…
I’m currently reading The Sports Gene by Sports Illustrated writer David Epstein (Read a brief overview here). It’s a fascinating treatise on what sports science has uncovered so far about the components that contribute to elite athletic performance. The book elaborates on the fundamental “nature vs nurture” question as it applies to athletics; how much…
The Rock Climber's Training Manual 