Testimonials

Praise for The Rock Climber’s Training Manual:

“With clear, concise, goal-oriented prose, inspiring full-color photographs, and all the charts you’ll need to get rolling on your own Rock Prodigy program, the Anderson brothers have compiled and made imminently accessible their impressive body of training lore. With proven results in their own careers, the Andersons show you how to make the most of limited training time, to time your training cycles for redpoint optimization, and to systematically improve as a rock climber. If becoming a better and stronger, more consistently performing climber is your goal, then this is the book for you!”

— Matt Samet, 5.14 first ascentionist, former editor of Climbing Magazine and author of the Climbing Dictionary and the Crag Survival Handbook

“The Andersons understand not only the strength and technique required in training, but also the mental dedication necessary to push one’s limits. Their experience as top-level athletes in the field, rather than just trainers in the gym, directly validates The Rock Climber’s Training Manual. Even seasoned climbing veterans can benefit from understanding the science behind their performance cycle, particularly when those words of wisdom come from climbers who have self-tested, re-tested, and fine-tuned their training methods for over fifteen years.”

Paige Claassen, US National Champion and 5.14 First-Ascentionist

“This is the best climbing training book ever written. It is a complete guide to success in hard rock climbing, and is a must-read for anyone serious about the sport. I don’t think there is a climber in the world that wouldn’t benefit from reading and applying the Rock Prodigy program.”

Steve Bechtel, Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist, climbstrong.com

“Training is central to achieving any athletic goal. It gives an outlet for our drive, and provides the strength and technical practice we need to improve. The Rock Climber’s Training Manual clearly lays out the details of how to train effectively to take your climbing to the next level.”

Tommy Caldwell, First Free Ascentionist of four El Cap Big Wall Free Climbs, First Ascentionist of America’s first 5.15

“Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned vet, a sport climber or big waller, The Anderson brothers have been there, done that. Their training secrets are all here, laid out in a solid blend of science and anecdotal evidence, ready for you to apply to your next project. If you’re searching for the path to your next level, this is where you’ll find it.”

Kris Hampton, Climbing Coach, powercompanyclimbing.com

“During my early climbing years I worked on my skill and technique, but still struggled when it came time to bare down. It wasn’t until I started following the Rock Prodigy program that I experienced marked improvements and since then, I’ve improved roughly a letter grade every six months. No other training resource has benefited more climbers, and now the Andersons have expanded and updated those concepts into a must-read for those looking to improve their climbing ability.”

Ryan Palo, Dedicated Weekend Warrior & 5.14 First Ascentionist.

“The Rock Climbers Training Manual is an exceptional book—just flipping through the pages gets me stoked to train. I specifically like the mix of scientific and physiological explanation alongside great photographs, diagrams and suggestions that make all the data applicable to your training and climbing. I’ll definitely be referencing this book during my next training period.”

Jonathan Siegrist, Professional climber, 5.14d First Ascentionist

“This will be the bible for climbing training in America. It is also a beautiful book, great production values, photos, etc… no other book can match the systematic, straightforward program presented in RCTM.”

— Mark Dixon, Boulder, CO

This generation’s Performance Rock Climbing.”

— Lee Smith, Louisville, KY

“Just got my copy of RCTM and I am loving it!  I have read many climbing training books and this one is my favorite to date. I like how the chapters go from complex scientific explanations to a summary with steps anyone can follow.  I like the training log that comes with the book and the example training plans.”

— Annie Robertson, Portland, OR

 

Reviews of The Rock Climber’s Training Manual:

  • Mountainproject.com: This will be the bible for climbing training in America. It is also a beautiful book…
  • Supertopo.com:Buy this book, follow the plan within, and you WILL increase your abilities.
  • 8a.nu: The most comprehensive training book for climbers…very well done…the new climbing bible.
  • Deadpoint Magazine: “This is a massive, comprehensive book…there is no better manual available.”
  • Climbing Magazine: “A must have…covers every aspect of climbing, from footwork to mental strategies”.

 

Praise for the Rock Prodigy training program:

“Rock Prodigy method…it works.”

– Jonathan Siegrist, after using the program to train for the First Ascent of La Lune, 5.14d

“Full circle! After a long time away, I’m climbing this spring, and found your considerable footprint and accomplishments online. It helped me structure my approach, and just wanted to say thank you for your contributions, and for furthering the ball.”

— Dale Goddard, Author of Performance Rock Climbing

“During my early climbing years I worked on my skill and technique, but still struggled when it came time to bare down. It wasn’t until I started following the Rock Prodigy program that I experienced marked improvements and since then, I’ve improved roughly a letter grade every six months. No other training resource has benefited more climbers.”

Ryan Palo, Bend, OR, Dedicated Weekend Warrior & 5.14 First Ascentionist.

“I’ve been climbing for about 15 years now and have tried a lot of different training programs, however, the Rock Prodigy method is the first program which was flexible, yet structure enough for me to follow.  At first, I was hesitant to give up any of my performance time to training, but after trying the program and doing one cycle, I realized that the program was my fast track to pushing through my 10 year 5.12- plateau.  I never realized that grip strength was my weakness until I did the Hangboard workout and now its my strength!  Prior to beginning the Rock Prodigy program, I never climbed 5.13 in my life, but after my first training cycle I sent 11 of them this season!  I can’t wait to do another cycle and see if I can climb mid range 5.13!  My previous red-point level was .12a and .12b and now I usually onsite them!!  Thanks guys.”

— Dan Brayack, Charleston, WV, http://www.brayackmedia.com/

“I’ve been climbing for about sixteen years, and by this point have climbed in most major areas of the lower 48. For the last ten years, I’ve bouldered in gyms 2-3 times a week, got to outdoors crags maybe twice a month, and gradually got solid on 5.12 climbs (granite, sandstone, limestone; sport and trad). I also started getting my first tendon pulley strains, probably 6 over the period of ten years. Until I began structured training via the RP methods, I was stuck as a 5.12 climber. I redpointed my first 5.12d in 2005, and my first 13a in 2011; this six-year plateau is the longest that I’ve ever had, and it took organized training to get past it.

Since I began the RP method, my redpoint level has progressed about one letter grade per year: 13a in 2011, 13b in 2012, and 13c in 2013. To me, the major benefit of RP periodization, is hangboarding. It is very static, simple, and easily quantifiable compared to other forms of training, with its repeatable method of adding weight with each session, and isolating specific fingers and/or grip. It is effective for building strength and preventing the finger injuries that I’d been plagued with for so long.

Last winter I was sidelined with a foot injury that kept me on crutches for nearly six months. I couldn’t train in any way that risked falling on my feet. Instead, I did only hangboarding, weighted lockoffs, and core exercises, all with structured, quantifiable goals of establishing my failure points and pushing beyond them. Although my power and technique were severely lacking by the time I got off the crutches, I was able to climb right back into my pre-injury levels, redpointing a 13b one month after getting off crutches and limping to the crag, and a 13c three months later (a new personal best).

In summary, the Rock Prodigy method has been instrumental in my breaking into 5.13. It is particularly good for us “weekend warriors” who have the psych and motivation to REGULARLY train 3-5 times a week in the gym and at select crags.”

— Paul Nelson, Fayetteville, WV

“I’ve incorporated the Rock Prodigy concepts for a few years now in some variation or another, with great results.  I specifically recall the winter training season of 2010.  Previously, my hardest onsight had been 5.10b/c and hardest redpoints were 5.11b.  After using the Rock Prodigy method all winter, the following season I jumped my routes to a 5.11c onsight and several 5.12a redpoints!”

– Josh Cox, http://realworldclimbing.com/

“This program is killer! Well structured, easy to follow, and best of all, fun. An incredible tool and a great way to reach your goals.”

— Greg K.

“After 9 years of climbing, I felt that I had plateaued. I was stuck at the same grade for several years, and felt that my lack of time on real rock was holding me back. I climbed at the gym regularly, between trips, but my climbing ability was erratic; I could never predict whether the trip would be on a “good” period or not. Following the Rock Prodigy method helped me gain control of these seemingly-random performance fluctuations. I was able to plan a trip and train accordingly, to make the most of those limited days on real rock. I don’t spend any more time training than I did before, I just use that time much more efficiently. After two cycles with the RP method, my redpoint grade bumped by a letter grade (for the first time in years), and I flashed a climb at my previous-redpoint level! Now I can try more hard climbs in a day, and redpoint my projects faster. Many moves that I previously thought were impossibly “reachy” are now, miraculously, very doable with increased strength and power.”

— Dr. Lena Moinova, Cleveland, OH

“When I started climbing I had a lifestyle that allotted plenty of time for climbing outdoors by working just enough to pay rent, eat & play outside. I spent several years climbing outdoors year round and consequently was onsighting 5.12+ sport & trad routes. After picking up a few other commitments like graduate school, a profession, family, house, etc, my climbing days became scant. So after not climbing regularly for a few years I planned an overseas climbing trip & needed to get in shape. I had known Mike & Janelle Anderson for years before they were cranking & saw how strong they had become in a relatively short time period. I asked them for some insights & Mike set me up with an early edition of the Rocky Prodigy method. It was easy to understand & to get started. The Rock Prodigy method lays out a very succinct system to safely & effectively train. After 12 weeks of the training program, I peaked on my trip & was onsighting 5.12s again. While I love to simply be outside moving on rock, I also like to climb well. When life happens & time is short, the Rock Prodigy method is the best way to send on those precious days off.”

— Desiree Westfall, Pocatello, ID

“Since I started training 6 years ago I’ve tried numerous strategies with varying outcomes. The only method that I’ve been able to consistently see results with is the Rock Prodigy Training Program. After “just climbing” for a few years it became apparent that I simply couldn’t climb often enough to make serious strength gains. Living in the South East gives me the opportunity to climb year round, but other priorities make it difficult to get outside more than once or twice a month. The Rock Prodigy Training Program allows me to make the most out of my climbing trips and I have shown steady, significant improvement since adopting this program. In two years I’ve been able to increase my redpoint level by almost 2 grades and am now able to onsight harder than my previous redpoints. A major benefit of this program is that it provides excellent results for the time spent training. Other programs I’ve tried require more volume but yield inferior results. The program is also explained in a way that makes it easy to modify to meet individual goals, thus making it suitable for a variety of climbers.”

— Ben Tipton, Dothan, Alabama

“I got a late start to climbing at the age of 30. Like many other climbers, I spent most of my training time doing “unfocused bouldering.” I took advice from friends, but there was no organization to my “training”. After about 3 years, of climbing 3 days a week, I was able to make it to mid-5.12 with the help of some experienced climbers.

After 4 total years of climbing I knew that I needed to start a formal training process. I had been climbing with Mike, so I tried his Rock Prodigy method and once I did, the results were immediate and noticeable. I progressed from 12c to 13a in 1 training cycle. I was able to consistently onsite 12a and the in-between grades took very few tries. The amount of time I was able to hold onto small holds was unbelievable.

Now, after using the Rock Prodigy method for 2 years, I am climbing mid-5.13, boulder V8, onsite 12+ and I have a clear path to improvement. I have been able to travel to different areas across the country and experience some great climbing. My friends regularly ask me for advice and I have a clear understanding of how they can improve too.

Training has totally changed my perspective in the best way. I am able to clearly identify my climbing goals and measure progress towards them. My newfound finger strength allows me to grab the small edges and pockets that I used to think were unusable. Campusing has totally changed the way that I climb; I’m much more willing to “go for it”. Sometimes, after a hard onsite route, I just sit there in awe of how many skills I’ve developed: The confidence to clip bolts at my waist, the ability to dyno to unknown holds. All of these skills grew out of the Rock Prodigy Method.

The most important advantage is TIME. I don’t have a lot of time to climb. I know kids who spend 20 hours a week at the gym. The short efficient workouts give me the time I need for other things in my life and I have been injury free since I started training.

Looking back, I still laugh when I overhear conversations at the gym about all the made-up, unproven training methods that some people use. There is no consistency and no way to measure progress. The Rock Prodigy method makes the most efficient use of my time and is the most clearly thought out and organized method that a person can use to get better. I look forward to every climbing season in much the same way that a kid looks forward to playing a video game.”

— Shaun Corpron, Dayton, Ohio

“I just came back from my trip to Kalymnos – a few weeks earlier I made a training plan for me (based on your ideas of training periodization but adapted to really short period of time I had – exactly six weeks) and I was able to set my new personal best on both OS and RP attempts and climb harder than ever! I’m really scared when I think what will happen if I start training hard for 3 months using those guidelines”

— Krzysztof Krzyżanowski, Poland

“I just wanted to say thanks for creating great training products and information, and also share my recent success on my hardest redpoint to date. 

Since about September 2011 I had been stuck at the 5.12d level, and finally in April 2014 I was able to climb my first 5.13a. The reason this redpoint feels so rewarding is that I achieved it during a very busy time in my life.  My wife, two kids and I were in the process of moving so there were extreme time constraints (like having two kids and a 9-5 isn’t enough) and because our house was up for sale, the only training equipment I didn’t pack up was the Rock Prodigy hangboard.  Due to the timing of our move I anticipated that I would not be able to complete a full PE phase in time so I had to shift my objective from a long pumpy 5.13a I had attempted a couple of times in the fall of 2013 to a short 4 bolt bouldery 5.13a I had tried once before in the fall 2012 and got completely spanked on!  All of my workouts took place on that hangboard (from ARCing to Max R training) but I was determined to take this climb down when conditions were good. 

In the end I redpointed quickly taking just 2 climbing days and 5 attempts (compared to my previous 5.12d taking 5 climbing days and 13 attempts).  I attribute a big portion of my success to the Rock Prodigy hangboard — I trained on the thin crimps to replicate the crux holds.  So I just wanted to say thanks again, your book, hangboard, and blog are great resources for training for climbing.”

— Ryan Crossing

“I am 65 and my wife is 49.  We followed your hangboard and campus board routines this spring and summer in preparation for the 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell.  We did add a lot of low level cardio but this is the first time in our 9 years of competing in the event that we added structured hangboarding and tracked our progress.   The result was that Natalie, my wife, set a new record for route count for women at 152.  Out of 66 women, she was second only to Bobbi Bensman.  As a team we totaled 304 points, that won third place in the co-ed team category behind Alex Honnold and his girl friend and Bobbi Bensman and Brady Robinson.  I won third place Masters.   We felt stronger and more powerful than ever and that is something at our age.  By the way, we are 5.11 climbers, not your normal hard-man type but the added strength and power from your routines helped us climb at a high level for 24 hours.”

— Dick Dower

“The RCTM has given me an efficient routine to perfect. Concentrating on the perfection of the most efficient routine has allowed me to get away from grades and fall in love with the process.  I went from frantically climbing through 10’s once the pump arrived, to recovering effortlessly on 11’s after only my second cycle.  Thank you guys for all the work that went into the most comprehensive climbing training manual in existence.”

— Bradley Austin Hilbert, Triangle Rock Club, Raleigh, NC

“This was my first season following any type of disciplined training regimen.  Previously, I had ‘just climbed’ and improved by trying hard and working through my fear of falling.  This brought me up to the 12a/b level as a redpoint best.  This season I used a modified version of your program and sent 13b, and am super close on my second 13b.  I also sent 12b, c, d on the same day when last year doing a single 12a would have spent me for the day.  All the while, I’m a medical student and got married/ went on a honeymoon this summer– so had lots going on in my life!  Part of the picture for me was climbing with people stronger than me, and learning from them the dark arts of redpointing (I had never really taken redpoint tactics seriously before).  Some of what I needed was just unlocking potential and strength that was already there.  However, what really gave me the edge this year was your program.  I’m still working on keeping the schedule and logging my progress diligently- but psyched to improve this next season.  I wanted to thank you guys for all the work you’ve put in to the book and to provide further evidence that the program is inspiring and yields results.  Thank you!”

— Paul Yannopoulos, Boston, MA

Read more first-hand testimonials here on the RCTM forum.

If you’ve used the Rock Prodigy training program and would like to share your results, please contact us using the form below:

5 thoughts on “Testimonials

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