Training Takeover: 8-Weeks to Rock Prodigy Status

Last night, the Rock Prodigy Training crew of Mark, Mike and Janelle Anderson stormed the Trango Social Media Headquarters and took the Trango Instagram hostage! Our plan is simple: over the next 10 days we will lay out a completely free, 8-week Introductory Training Program that will get YOU crushing at a whole new level (ideally before the authorities bust through our defenses of spring-loaded Big Bros, Squid-tipped Stick Clips and Cord Trapper Rope bags).

What Is This?

An 8-week program that will help climbers of ALL abilities, especially you! As an “introductory” program, it’s primarily intended as a sampler—a way to illustrate the value of systematic training to the uninitiated, while simplifying the process so that anyone can follow it, regardless of climbing experience. Think of it as a brief summary and trial-run of the world-renown Rock Prodigy Training Method.

How Can I Participate?

We will lay out the overarching program here, and then over the next few days provide video tutorials and demonstrations of each training activity, supported by links to reference materials, relevant research, and where the uber-psyched can go for more in-depth information. To participate in the training event of the year, simply follow us on Instagram  and check in on this blog daily for updated links to free additional resources.

The Program

The program is a slightly condensed version of the incredibly effective and time-tested Rock Prodigy Training Program (described in detail in the critically acclaimed Rock Climber’s Training Manual). On average, this program has improved climbing performance by 1.5 letter grades after just one season!  We will explain and demonstrate all of the same training exercises used in the standard program, but the length of training “phases” will be shortened slightly to provide the maximum training benefit in the shortest period of time.

When Do I Start?

You can start training whenever you’re ready! We will provide the first workout tomorrow on the Trango Instagram feed. That said, it’s a good idea to think about your climbing schedule for the coming year. For most of us, winter is the perfect time to start training in preparation for the spring climbing season. I’d recommend trying each workout once over the next two weeks, then enjoy the Holidays, build your psych and prepare your training equipment in anticipation of starting the program in early January. That will set you up to hit the crag cranking in early March.

The Details

This program consists of 4 training “Phases,” followed by an on-the-rock “Performance Phase.” The training phases are:

  1. Base Fitness – 1 Week
  2. Strength – 3 Weeks
  3. Power – 2 Weeks
  4. Power Endurance – 2 Weeks

During the 4 training phases, you will perform the following training activities, some of which you may have heard of before:

  • Aerobic Restoration & Capillarity (“ARC”) Training
  • Hangboard Training
  • Limit Bouldering
  • Campus Training
  • Linked Bouldering Circuits

Some of these activities may seem intimidating now, but the workouts we will present have each been tailored to suit those new to training, and any activity can be replaced with less-intense alternatives if desired (or if you lack the appropriate equipment).

The Performance Phase can last as long as you want, but typically you will see the best performance during the first 4-6 weeks after you finish the Power Endurance Phase.

What’s Next

Tune in tomorrow on the Trango Instagram Feed, for your primer on ARC Training for Base Fitness. We will update this page with links at the top of the page expanding on each day’s topic. Follow along, get psyched, and get ready to start crushing!


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