by Mark Anderson In mid-November I learned some unfortunate news–the agency that manages my county’s open space lands had decided to begin regulating bolts on county land (among other climbing restrictions). A permit would be required to install any bolts or other fixed hardware, and development of new crags would require extensive environmental impact and…
Take the “Rock Prodigy Forge User Experience” survey! Last winter we asked our loyal readers to provide feedback on the Rock Prodigy Training Method, and the Rock Prodigy Training Center. Your responses were overwhelming, and we really appreciate the feedback! Some of the data from that survey was published in our research paper, “A novel…
by Mark Anderson The American Alpine Club’s Craggin Classic series will be descending on Shelf Road this weekend. The festivities will include clinics on Saturday and Sunday, food and beverages, a costume contest and slideshows Friday and Saturday night. Friend of the Show Jonathan Siegrist will be presenting Friday night and I will be presenting a slideshow Saturday…
The main purpose of our Spain trip was for me to attend the 7th Asian-Pacific Congress on Sports Technology and present our research on training for climbing. The paper we wrote focused on finger strength training, in particular. The paper is posted on our site, there is a link on the right sidebar (look…
****************************************************************************************************************************** Barcelona! What an incredible city full of life, people, culture, food, history and so much more. It has to be one of my new favorite cities of all time and we just scratched the surface. We will get into Barcelona highlights in a future post, right now I want to focus on climbing. First, I want…
********************************************************************************************************************************** Don’t get me wrong! The Tapas and Tufas in Spain are pretty amazing as well as prolific! However, there was so much more in the climbing world, the history, the culture, the parks, the food and the people. How do you sum up a whirlwind nine days in Spain? I’m not really sure you…
by Mark Anderson Growing up, I rarely had the opportunity climb. As a teenager, I occasionally had the chance to try it, typically on the most pitiful excuses for climbing walls you could imagine (one vertical sheet of 4×8 plywood with 2x4s nailed on for holds, and the like). The small geographical area within my…
The new Rock Prodigy Forge hangboard will be available from Trango beginning this week, and I’d like to share with our loyal readers just how it came to be. I’m confident The Forge is the most technologically advanced finger strength training device ever created. While it may not appear to be a complex product, it…
In an article a few weeks ago (Thunder Strike – Part I), I unveiled a couple new routes I established last spring at Thunder Ridge, Colorado’s premier granite crag (IMHO). As soon as I made the first redpoint of Game of Drones, I went directly to the next on the list; an unfinished route ominously…
by Mark Anderson It’s been ages since I’ve done a proper road trip. Camping with young kids can border on misery, so we’ve made a point to avoid it since Logan came along. When Amelie turned two last month (Logan is four-and-a-half) we tested the waters with a 3-day trip to the Black Canyon and…
The Rock Climber's Training Manual 