My training philosophy emphasizes finger strength training above all else. For a number of mostly obvious reasons, I’m convinced that finger strength is the single most important physical factor (as opposed to mental or technical factors) in rock climbing. That said, there are other elements of physical strength that are relevant, and worth training, if…
This is part 2 in a three-part series on Campus Training. If you haven’t read Part 1, please do. Frequency & Rest The next order of business is to discuss frequency. Of all training activities, this one has the highest Gab-to-Grab ratio of them all. That is, far more time is spent talking about Campusing than…
“There is no ‘right’, there’s only what’s ‘right’ for you.” -Coach Beloit, The Jericho Mile John Steinbeck (author of The Grapes of Wrath, Of Mice and Men, East of Eden, and many others) has long been one of my favorite authors. His novels paint a vivid picture of the human condition, and in my experience, provide…
I received some great questions on my “Goal Setting for Climbing” posts, so I will attempt to answer some of them here. Look for another post in the near future that will address technique drills & other ways to train technique in the gym. Q: I have set a “big hairy goal” this year (Virgin…
Part I discussed the importance of goal-setting for climbing and provided some basic examples specific to the realm of mounaineering. Part II will discuss some more specifics on goal-setting for rock climbing. The subject of goal-setting in general life has been covered by countless self-help books and seminars. Two fantastic resources specific to climbing are…
Goal-setting has been an essential tool in all athletic pursuits for decades. You could make the argument that it is an essential tool in all human endeavors. Even chipmunks set out every Fall with the intention of gathering enough acorns to make it through the winter. Goal-setting is just as important in climbing. Goals create…
The Rock Climber's Training Manual 