I received some great questions on my “Goal Setting for Climbing” posts, so I will attempt to answer some of them here. Look for another post in the near future that will address technique drills & other ways to train technique in the gym.
Q: I have set a “big hairy goal” this year (Virgin No More, Penitente Canyon), but wasn’t sure about how to incorporate this goal into my training beyond fingerboarding on really small holds.
A: Setting up intermediate goals is a great way to work your way towards a “big hairy goal”. The great thing about having the big goal in mind, is that it can help determine what those intermediate goals should be. In this case, I would recommend selecting some project routes that you can use as stepping stones. Ideally these routes would be at the same crag as your big hairy goal, and of similar style (steepness, hold type, length, continuity). If geography prevents you from establishing intermediate goal routes at the same crag, try to find some routes nearby that are of similar style. Some examples of crags with similar climbing to Penitente are Cochita Mesa, NM, Smith Rock, OR, and Shelf Road, CO. How far you are from achieving your big hairy goal will determine how many intermediate goals are required. I would recommend trying at least one route at each letter grade between where you are now and where you are going.
From a training perspective, it can be extremely helpful to identify the characteristics of your goal route and train specifically for them. The route may have a stopper crux or unusual grip that might be worth incorporating into your hangboard routine (such as a mono move, difficult pinch, or split-finger grip). Perhaps the route has a shouldery crux, continuous lockoffs, or sustained underclinging, requiring some specific strength training beyond the hangboard.
Many redpoint attempts end at dynos, so if your project has any, it can be helpful to practice the movements invovled. Pocket routes may require abnormal precision while dynoing, and often present mental obstacles associated with dynoing (fear of injury or lack of confidence in your precision), so practicing dynoing into pockets in a controlled environment like the gym might be helpful (but be mindful not to over do it!). Dynoing into or out of unusual position can present similar problems, such as dynoing into an undercling. Practicing the basic movement in the gym can make things progress more quickly once you get to the real thing.
Understanding the endurance requirements of your project can make the difference between success and failure on a short trip. Ideally you would know the number of moves, and how long it takes to climb the sustained portions of the route (once you have them sussed). With this information, you can set up a 4×4, bouldering traverse, or other training circuit that mimics the length (both in terms of # of moves and time), steepness, difficulty and hold type of your project.
Q: What types of technique drills would you do to improve for a thin project? …How do you approach training in the gym…most gym routes seem to have huge feet and promote more “thuggish” style climbing?
A: I will address this more broadly in a following post, but here’s a preview. Those who know me well know that the enormous-footholds-in-the-gym-thing is a HUGE pet peeve of mine. How hard is it to screw a few jibs on the wall? Even if your gym is anti-screw-in (as many are, due to the increasingly elaborate wall coatings gyms are using these days), there are many bolt-on footholds on the market that require some thought and technique to use effectively. So to the gym-managers out there: you have no excuse–throw us a bone already!
Anyway, if you’re lucky, you can build your own gym like me, and set things up to maximize your improvement, rather than to maximize the fun-quotient of transient birthday children. But most folks are stuck dealing with unrealistically large footholds. In this case you have a few options. First, don’t be afraid to approach your gym staff and ask nicely for them to add some realistic footholds. Maybe if enough people ask, they will get the message. After all, the small holds are actually cheaper than the big ones! Failing that, you might ask for permision to install some of your own. Once you’ve exhausted these options, beg your wife for permission to build your own wall. When that fails, note that many of the gigantic footholds in your gym have smaller “sub-features” that can be used for feet. Practice using these. If you gym has one of those fancy plaster coatings mentioned earlier, look for irregularites, pits, cracks, divots, etc, that you can practice smearing or edging on. Stand in bolt holes, are even on protruding bolt-heads. Even if you don’t have route-setting privileges at your gym, be creative, look for feautures that fit your needs (perhaps the footholds for the V4 sloper/pinch boulder problem can be used as crimps) and make your own problems.
Another gym issue is that almost all plastic holds can be pinched, making it easier to pull out on holds (versus simply pulling down). This is much less common outside, so if you find yourself pinching all the small crimps, stop. You will find big reach moves and long lock-offs are much more difficult.
Finally, in my experience the biggest challenge with thin face routes is psychological. We are so accustomed to big, incut holds, and overhanging walls that when we get on small, slopey, insecure holds, we tend to freak out a little bit. This leads to shaky legs, overgripping, and poor-technique. So get as much mileage as possible on similar terrain. Once these situations become old-hat you will notice the movement flows naturally.
Q: If you are going to spend a limited amount of time at the crag where your project is([such that] simply flogging the route every weekend is not an option) how would you stillwork your project without constant access to it?
A: As discussed above, find some routes or boulder problems near your home that are of similar style. This will help with the mileage aspect, getting you accustomed to the style of climbing required. If you have a home wall, or route-setting privileges at your public gym, build boulder problems (or complete routes) that precisely mimic your project or its crux sequences. If you’re OCD like me you can take a tape measure to the crag and map out the distance between holds, and create a full on replica to train on. This method was the secret to Malcolm Smith’s success when he famously came out of nowhere to nab the second ascent of Hubble, one of the hardest routes in the world at the time at 8c+.
Another afterthought that is sure to come to the forefront at the worst possible time is skin care. Thin routes are particularly hard on the skin, concentrating lots of wear and tire on a very small area. Again, expect a more generalized post in the future, but to summarize, as with most things in life, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Begin taking care of your skin well in advance of your trips. Get in the habit of sanding your pads when you start your hangboarding cylce so your skin is nice and thick and ready go once its time to transition to real rock.
Finally, following a periodized training schedule can help you ensure that you are peaking at the right time–when you are on the rock–thereby maximizing your likelihood of success on the few days you get to try your project.