[*Editor’s Note: This blog post was updated on October 22, 2018 to correct the proper polarity for the “1-Tin Method”] by Mark Anderson This is Part II in a two-part series. Check out Part I, especially the many warnings and disclaimers, here. While the “standard method” of Iontophoresis was working well for me, I found it…
by Mark Anderson For many performance-oriented climbers, finger skin durability is a limiting factor. Repeatedly reefing on small, sharp holds can do significant damage, resulting in debilitating skin injuries like bloody flappers, splits, blisters, or simply thin skin that oozes sweat. Through trial and error, climbers have devised various methods to maximize skin toughness and…
By Mark Anderson Our friends at Trango generously footed the bill to send Mike and I to the International Rock Climbing Research Association’s (IRCRA) annual conference, held in Telluride, CO earlier this month. Ben and Jason at Fixed Pin Publishing also stepped up big-time to provide attendees with complimentary copies of The Rock Climber’s Training…
by Mark Anderson Last fall our good friend Chris Alstrin of Mind Frame Cinema came out to The Bunker in Clear Creek Canyon to shoot video of my route Born On The 4th of July, which I opened in May of 2015. Chris posted the video today on the AAC’s Instagram page. You can check…
by Mark Anderson Last week I had to upgrade to a new binder for my training records. The old one was full. This is actually my fourth or fifth binder. My first binder was just an old manila folder. The oldest sheet in my binder is a hangboard log for a workout I did in June…
by Mark Anderson I spent the end of 2015 bolting a bunch of new lines. With a huge “To Do” list looming over me, I focused my winter season on ticking off as many of those new lines as I could. The weather during February and early March was amazing (from my perspective)—highs in the…
Earlier this week Mike and I were invited on Nik Hawks’ podcast over at PaleoTreats. PaleoTreats is a web-based mail order company that makes delicious and nutritious desserts for active and health-conscious folks. In their own words, “…We’ve been making foodie-approved Paleo desserts since 2009. We are serious about flavor, texture, ingredients and Paleo. Yes, all…
by Mark Anderson A recent discussion got me thinking about some of the mental impediments to advancing to the “next level.” Whether the next level for you happens to be 5.11a or 5.15a, many of us encounter a feeling of inadequacy when pondering the next jump in difficulty—a sense that “I’m not worthy of [insert…
Limit Bouldering is one of the best ways for rock climbers to train power. When done properly, Limit Bouldering trains max recruitment, contraction speed, core strength and inter-muscular coordination. If that weren’t enough, Limit Bouldering is also highly sport-specific, so the skills developed will translate directly to the rock. The crux of Limit Bouldering is…
by Mark Anderson In mid-November I learned some unfortunate news–the agency that manages my county’s open space lands had decided to begin regulating bolts on county land (among other climbing restrictions). A permit would be required to install any bolts or other fixed hardware, and development of new crags would require extensive environmental impact and…
The Rock Climber's Training Manual 